Authentic Persian Cuisine Shines at Family-Run Ispahan in Pointe-St. Charles

Glenn J. Nashen: A new Vietnamese experience at Tran Cantine

When it comes to a Vietnamese dining-out experience in Montreal look no further than the Tran Family. Following up on our recent sensational night out at the newly launched Hang Bar in Old Montreal, Judy and I, along with our friends Dana and Jeff accepted an invitation to Marilyn Tran’s diner in St. Henri, aptly named Tran Cantine.

Review of Restaurant Hang: Glenn J. Nashen: Montreal’s Top-Notch Vietnamese Cuisine

What secret treasures await when a new restaurant opens? One can only imagine, until being lucky enough to be exposed to the sights, smells and tastes of Restaurant Hang. Such was the experience on a recent Thursday night when my wife and I made reservations at what has been billed as the “first haute cuisine Vietnamese restaurant” in Montreal. Sure, our city has plenty of upscale trendy places, but nothing quite like this new concept in Asian fine dining. It tantalized all of our senses, from the moment we walked through the doors and took in the sumptuous decor. Hang arrives as the newest restaurant in the renowned hospitality group JEGantic’s portfolio. Vietnamese cuisine will be elevated from its usual humble “mom and pop” eateries to a refined haute cuisine experience that celebrates the unique flavours of the Southeast Asian country. Montrealers will be fittingly welcomed to come “hang” and indulge in a culinary journey that reflects Vietnam’s rich heritage with an innovative spin on favourite dishes. We were greeted by Joyce Phanekham, the effervescent general manager, who was helpful and attentive to her guests throughout our two-and-a-half-hour dining experience. She promptly introduced us to one of the most personable restauranteurs we have yet to meet, Marylyn Tran. Marylyn teamed up with her husband Alain and the folks from JEGantic to create an experiential and uniquely Asian venue for traditional, authentic Vietnamese cuisine in a class of its own. And who better to know how to achieve this pinnacle other than the Tran family who already own several restaurants under the Tran Cantine banner? After all, Marylyn was raised in her parent’s kitchen where she acquired her unique taste, over at their St. Denis Street Vietnamese restaurant, Pho Tay Ho. The family started this business back in 1986 and it is still going strong. Indeed, the name Hang is a nod of appreciation to Marylyn’s mom. Marylyn grew up cherishing the culinary and cultural intricacies that captivated their family, friends and clientele and eventually branched out, opening her own chain of traditional Vietnamese restos. Located between Griffintown and Old Montreal, Hang will surely attract the young in-crowd, as well as tourists seeking a memorable night out on the town. Marylyn introduced us to her right-hand man, Marco, a knowledgeable and experienced server and cook who took care of us for our date-night. He described in great detail each dish served, with ease and familiarity as though he himself was the chef. We started out with, what else, Pho Wagyu Consommé, a classic noodle soup that Hang has enhanced with its elaborate preparation: 14 hours of cooking over at Tran Cantine. It had many delicate ingredients including Wagyu beef and fresh rice noodles. The aroma of truffle alone made this a mouth-watering winning choice. Judy’s Franco-Viet Salmon Tartare tasted “like the ocean.” This dish of salmon was served with old-fashioned mustard, crispy rice, shallots, green onions and long red peppers. My Five-Spiced Buttered Scalloped – Ngo Vi Houng consisted of three pan-fried scallops each nestled in its own Asian soup spoon and bathed in secret fish sauce. They were garnished with crushed nuts and a hint of lemon making them simply perfect. Judy enjoyed her main course of Vegan Red Curry, a locally sourced seasonal vegetable medley stewed in red curry paste, coconut milk, palm sugar and julienned taro. I literally licked my fingers while eating a homemade order of Banh Mi Foie Gras. Imagine pan-seared foie gras, caramelized onions, pickled carrots and daikon, cucumber, coriander, and homemade mayo with Hang special sauce on a soft baguette, an ode to Alain’s native city of Paris. It was served on a large banana leaf, and the garnish on all their plates was a work of art. So too was the elegantly designed cutlery. Joyce describes Hang as a chill environment to linger, drink, talk and share delicious dishes among friends. All the staff were extremely personable, friendly and helpful. The decor features exotic nature elements that mimic the dense greenery of Da Nang’s jungle. The soaring ceilings, leafy chandeliers and striking wood columns add an impressive grandeur to the place. There was a great vibe throughout our evening with lots of smiling, happy young patrons. Indeed, owing to the immersive bar environment diners must be 18 or older at Hang. Finally, our dessert was served. Gateau au Pandan was quite distinct and attractive but we both decided that the Creamy Coconut Flan with Banana was the clear winner. Hang has a flair for mixology. From our opening round of shots to our cocktails, and mocktails and ending with a Vietnamese Coffee Martini, they are pros at presentation, taste and hospitality. Marylyn and her crew may be new to the high-end market but the high-end market is also new to Vietnamese cuisine. They are truly passionate about their mission and are on a winning track. Our experience was delightful and our evening was enriched by their warm and hospitable demeanour. We felt like we were hanging out (no pun intended) with friends and family around an exquisitely prepared table of outstanding cultural cuisine. Who could ask for more? Hang is poised to become Montreal’s new must-visit dining destination. It is located at 686 Notre Dame Ouest in Old Montreal, Tuesdays to Saturdays from 5:00 p.m. Visit hangbar.ca or call 514 910-2227.

Glenn J. Nashen’s Five Alarm Culinary Adventure at Sushi Taxi

Not even a major shutdown of Notre Dame Street in Little Burgundy could keep us away from a gastronomic luxury take-out of sushi and Asian fusion at Sushi Taxi. No exaggeration! The fire department literally closed down the street for an emergency. However, the conscientious staff called to say, ‘stand by’. As soon as the ‘all clear’ sounded we headed into the bistro-chique locale.

Glenn J. Nashen discovers more than a good dinner at Casa Grecque in Chomedey

I was looking for a tasty, family-friendly take-out dinner and Casa Grecque in Chomedey was my next pick. My family and I love plentiful Greek salads and tangy appetizers, particularly during long, cold Quebec winters when delicious, plump red tomatoes are not in abundance. What I found at this spacious, well-decorated restaurant in Chomedey at the corner of St. Martin Blvd. and Daniel-Johnson Blvd. was far more than I could have imagined.

Nashen does Take-Out: Bistro Amerigo still heating up on Monkland

Bistro Amerigo may be a relatively small eatery, but during the pandemic lockdown the well-known West-End restaurant is doing large scale take-out and delivery. I last reported on Amerigo some two-and-a-half years ago and have returned numerous times with friends and family since then. The local “Garde Manger Italien” (or kitchen pantry) has maintained its flair for fine authentic dishes at reasonable prices, not far from home.

Glenn J. Nashen grabs a kosher slice at PizzaPita Prime

PizzaPita has been going strong in the Snowdon area for more than 30 years. With their recent move across Decarie Boulevard to the former Pizza Hut location in front of Decarie Square, at the corner of Decarie and Vezina, they have a prime spot to garner the attention of thousands of commuters, shoppers and locals each and every day. Hence they’ve rebranded PizzaPita to PizzaPita Prime.

Mike Cohen

Mike Cohen, born and raised in Côte Saint-Luc, has long been active in the community as a volunteer, journalist, and consultant. He profiles restaurants in Montreal and beyond.

mikecohen.ca and @mikecohencsl

I cannot remember how many times I have sampled Persian cuisine in Montreal, but a recent summer evening at Ispahan in Pointe-St. Charles left a particularly lasting impression on both my dinner guest and me.

The family-run restaurant is the creation of Farah Esfahani and her son, Arsalan Khalilian, with support from other family members, including her other son, Erfan, an aerospace engineer by day. The family immigrated to Montreal from Iran in 2011 and initially opened a French-inspired lounge in 2017 before pivoting to the cuisine closest to their hearts in 2022: authentic Persian cooking.

The restaurant takes its name from Isfahan, the historic Iranian city where the family once lived. Farah and Arsalan quickly built a loyal following among Montreal’s Iranian community and beyond. In fact, some of their most devoted patrons come from the Jewish community. Earlier this year, members of Temple Emanu-El-Beth-Sholom even hosted a Purim celebration at the restaurant.

Ispahan specializes in traditional Persian cuisine, with an emphasis on expertly grilled meats and time-honoured family recipes. Among its signature dishes are the Joojeh Kebab (saffron-marinated chicken skewers), Koobideh Kebab (minced lamb and veal skewers), Mahicheh (slow-braised lamb shank), Kashk-e-Bademjan (eggplant dip), and the refreshing Shirazi salad of cucumber, tomato and herbs.

Farah personally looked after our table with the same passion she brought to her beautiful cookbook, Un Voyage Culinaire en Iran, published last year. Although she has a background in information technology, her talent in the kitchen is undeniable—a gift clearly shared by her son.

Our culinary journey began with a superb selection of appetizers. What initially appeared to be pita bread turned out to be tafton, a thinner, softer Persian flatbread made exclusively for Ispahan by a local Iranian bakery. It served as the perfect vehicle for a trio of traditional starters.

The Mast-o-Mousir was creamy, cool and delicately tangy, combining yogurt with a subtle garlicky, onion-like flavour. Equally memorable was the olive, pomegranate and walnut dip, which offered a delightful balance of sweetness and acidity. The standout, however, may have been the Ispahan Kashk Bademjan—fried eggplant seasoned with caramelized onions, garlic and mint, then crowned with kashk, a rich goat’s milk yogurt that added remarkable depth and complexity.

The Joojeh Kebab exceeded expectations. Tender chicken breast, marinated in saffron, olive oil, lemon and onions, emerged from the grill juicy and bursting with flavour. The Koobideh Kebab was equally impressive. These two skewers of minced milk-fed lamb and veal were exceptionally tender, cutting like butter and virtually melting in our mouths.

And then there was the saffron rice.

This Persian staple is far more than a side dish. Fluffy white rice infused with precious saffron develops a beautiful golden hue, a delicate floral aroma and subtle honey-like earthiness. The preparation is meticulous: the rice is soaked, parboiled and then steamed so that every grain remains long, separate and perfectly fluffy. A portion is blended with saffron-infused water before being layered over the white rice, creating a dish that is as visually stunning as it is delicious.

For dessert, we shared saffron ice cream and Turkish baklava accompanied by fragrant Persian tea. It was the perfect finale to an exceptional meal. The restaurant also offers a thoughtful selection of signature cocktails and carefully chosen wines.

Portions throughout the evening were remarkably generous, ensuring we left with several takeout containers and enough leftovers to enjoy the next day. The dining room itself is warm and inviting, decorated with photographs showcasing the beauty and diversity of Iran’s landscapes and culture.

On selected Saturday evenings, Ispahan adds even more energy to the experience with a live DJ and traditional dance performances. The restaurant also welcomes group reservations.

Ispahan is open for dinner from Thursday through Sunday and is located at 1777 Rue Centre in Pointe-St. Charles. For information or reservations, call 514-805-5002, visit www.ispahan.ca, or email ispahan.mtl@gmail.com.

For anyone seeking an authentic taste of Iran without leaving Montreal, Ispahan offers a memorable culinary voyage well worth taking.

Authentic Persian Cuisine Shines at Family-Run Ispahan in Pointe-St. Charles

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