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Le Molière par Mousso at Studio-Cabaret / Espace St-Denis is a new Montreal hotspot

    A few months ago I received a tantalizing press release about a new restaurant that was about to open on trendy St. Denis Street called  Le Molière par Mousso. “We’ll invite you for a tasting once we are truly up and running,” I  was promised.

    Well, true to their word, the publicity firm came through with the invitation. Recently, after finally getting to see the beyond-spectacular 3D art show Lasting Impressions right next door, I dropped by for one heck of a  lunch!

    Lasting Impressions, which will have its second run June 1 to 18, 2023, has given this new dining establishment the perfect jumpstart and with a built-in audience.  

    Le Molière par Mousso is located on St-Denis Street, at the corner of de Maisonneuve Boulevard.  Elegant and affordable, this gourmet French brasserie provides direct access to the Espace St-Denis complex.

    Hostess Johanne Bouchard gave me a tour of the facility, which includes a room for private functions. Our server Clement, who just arrived in Montreal a few months ago via Belgium, went over the menu: soup, entrées, fish, beef, chicken, duck, tartare, sides, desserts, a full bar and of course champagne

    Owner, Jean Pilote, the man behind the rebirth of the Capitole de Québec, has partnered with Nicolas Rousseau (Le Continental du Vieux-Québec) and A5 Hospitality (Jatoba,  Le Cathcart, Flyjin), to launch this concept. 

    A colleague and I started off our meal with two piping and delicious bowls of cream of ravioli soup and enjoyed some French bread with butter. For the main course, I chose the aged duck in grand veneur sauce. It cut like butter and I must say was a real treat, since I do not see it on many menus. On the side, I enjoyed a crispy plate of  French fries. The  Coquille St-Jacques also comes highly recommended. This classic scallop recipe from the French kitchen is oven-baked in the shell. It is nicely accompanied by a side of sauteed mushrooms.

    There is a tantalizing dessert menu here. I could not resist the  chocolate mousse and I also had my eye on  the lemon tarte,

    The menu here has other items worth looking at: cream of mushroom,  onion and fish soups; pâtes, oysters Rockefeller,  lobster, salmon, rabbit, veal, schnitzel and beef filet just to name a few. There are also several items on their special “rapid menu,” such as half a chicken, beef tartare, an omelet, hamburger and croque-monsieur.

    Culinary Director  Antonin Mousseau-Rivard is the winner of numerous awards, including Most Innovative Chef from Canada’s 100 Best in 2019, and leads the kitchen staff.

    “My driving passion in life is eating! And with Le Molière, I am returning to my first love: French cuisine,” said Mousseau-Rivard. “I want to offer guests an informal gourmet experience, and the opportunity to appreciate the classics that have been brought up to date, simply and with quality ingredients. I’m thinking about French onion soup, truffle toast, oeuf mayonnaise, seafood platter, bone marrow, jellied salmon, and lobster thermidor. Various classics that I was really happy to come back to. Honestly, I missed this type of cuisine. They are recipes that I studied when I was really young, which made my mouth water. I am self-taught and the rather strange child that I was used to reading old French cookbooks before going to bed!”  

    With 45 years of experience in gastronomy, Daniel Vézina is the founding chef of the restaurant called Laurie Raphaël as well as for the entire Espace St-Denis complex, which caters to the Lasting Impressions food services. For more information and to see the full menu log on to: www.lemoliere.com.

    Mike Cohen

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