Lyla Toronto is an upscale Mediterranean-inspired restaurant with a Montrealer at the helm

Glenn J. Nashen: A new Vietnamese experience at Tran Cantine

When it comes to a Vietnamese dining-out experience in Montreal look no further than the Tran Family. Following up on our recent sensational night out at the newly launched Hang Bar in Old Montreal, Judy and I, along with our friends Dana and Jeff accepted an invitation to Marilyn Tran’s diner in St. Henri, aptly named Tran Cantine.

Review of Restaurant Hang: Glenn J. Nashen: Montreal’s Top-Notch Vietnamese Cuisine

What secret treasures await when a new restaurant opens? One can only imagine, until being lucky enough to be exposed to the sights, smells and tastes of Restaurant Hang. Such was the experience on a recent Thursday night when my wife and I made reservations at what has been billed as the “first haute cuisine Vietnamese restaurant” in Montreal. Sure, our city has plenty of upscale trendy places, but nothing quite like this new concept in Asian fine dining. It tantalized all of our senses, from the moment we walked through the doors and took in the sumptuous decor. Hang arrives as the newest restaurant in the renowned hospitality group JEGantic’s portfolio. Vietnamese cuisine will be elevated from its usual humble “mom and pop” eateries to a refined haute cuisine experience that celebrates the unique flavours of the Southeast Asian country. Montrealers will be fittingly welcomed to come “hang” and indulge in a culinary journey that reflects Vietnam’s rich heritage with an innovative spin on favourite dishes. We were greeted by Joyce Phanekham, the effervescent general manager, who was helpful and attentive to her guests throughout our two-and-a-half-hour dining experience. She promptly introduced us to one of the most personable restauranteurs we have yet to meet, Marylyn Tran. Marylyn teamed up with her husband Alain and the folks from JEGantic to create an experiential and uniquely Asian venue for traditional, authentic Vietnamese cuisine in a class of its own. And who better to know how to achieve this pinnacle other than the Tran family who already own several restaurants under the Tran Cantine banner? After all, Marylyn was raised in her parent’s kitchen where she acquired her unique taste, over at their St. Denis Street Vietnamese restaurant, Pho Tay Ho. The family started this business back in 1986 and it is still going strong. Indeed, the name Hang is a nod of appreciation to Marylyn’s mom. Marylyn grew up cherishing the culinary and cultural intricacies that captivated their family, friends and clientele and eventually branched out, opening her own chain of traditional Vietnamese restos. Located between Griffintown and Old Montreal, Hang will surely attract the young in-crowd, as well as tourists seeking a memorable night out on the town. Marylyn introduced us to her right-hand man, Marco, a knowledgeable and experienced server and cook who took care of us for our date-night. He described in great detail each dish served, with ease and familiarity as though he himself was the chef. We started out with, what else, Pho Wagyu Consommé, a classic noodle soup that Hang has enhanced with its elaborate preparation: 14 hours of cooking over at Tran Cantine. It had many delicate ingredients including Wagyu beef and fresh rice noodles. The aroma of truffle alone made this a mouth-watering winning choice. Judy’s Franco-Viet Salmon Tartare tasted “like the ocean.” This dish of salmon was served with old-fashioned mustard, crispy rice, shallots, green onions and long red peppers. My Five-Spiced Buttered Scalloped – Ngo Vi Houng consisted of three pan-fried scallops each nestled in its own Asian soup spoon and bathed in secret fish sauce. They were garnished with crushed nuts and a hint of lemon making them simply perfect. Judy enjoyed her main course of Vegan Red Curry, a locally sourced seasonal vegetable medley stewed in red curry paste, coconut milk, palm sugar and julienned taro. I literally licked my fingers while eating a homemade order of Banh Mi Foie Gras. Imagine pan-seared foie gras, caramelized onions, pickled carrots and daikon, cucumber, coriander, and homemade mayo with Hang special sauce on a soft baguette, an ode to Alain’s native city of Paris. It was served on a large banana leaf, and the garnish on all their plates was a work of art. So too was the elegantly designed cutlery. Joyce describes Hang as a chill environment to linger, drink, talk and share delicious dishes among friends. All the staff were extremely personable, friendly and helpful. The decor features exotic nature elements that mimic the dense greenery of Da Nang’s jungle. The soaring ceilings, leafy chandeliers and striking wood columns add an impressive grandeur to the place. There was a great vibe throughout our evening with lots of smiling, happy young patrons. Indeed, owing to the immersive bar environment diners must be 18 or older at Hang. Finally, our dessert was served. Gateau au Pandan was quite distinct and attractive but we both decided that the Creamy Coconut Flan with Banana was the clear winner. Hang has a flair for mixology. From our opening round of shots to our cocktails, and mocktails and ending with a Vietnamese Coffee Martini, they are pros at presentation, taste and hospitality. Marylyn and her crew may be new to the high-end market but the high-end market is also new to Vietnamese cuisine. They are truly passionate about their mission and are on a winning track. Our experience was delightful and our evening was enriched by their warm and hospitable demeanour. We felt like we were hanging out (no pun intended) with friends and family around an exquisitely prepared table of outstanding cultural cuisine. Who could ask for more? Hang is poised to become Montreal’s new must-visit dining destination. It is located at 686 Notre Dame Ouest in Old Montreal, Tuesdays to Saturdays from 5:00 p.m. Visit hangbar.ca or call 514 910-2227.

Glenn J. Nashen’s Five Alarm Culinary Adventure at Sushi Taxi

Not even a major shutdown of Notre Dame Street in Little Burgundy could keep us away from a gastronomic luxury take-out of sushi and Asian fusion at Sushi Taxi. No exaggeration! The fire department literally closed down the street for an emergency. However, the conscientious staff called to say, ‘stand by’. As soon as the ‘all clear’ sounded we headed into the bistro-chique locale.

Glenn J. Nashen discovers more than a good dinner at Casa Grecque in Chomedey

I was looking for a tasty, family-friendly take-out dinner and Casa Grecque in Chomedey was my next pick. My family and I love plentiful Greek salads and tangy appetizers, particularly during long, cold Quebec winters when delicious, plump red tomatoes are not in abundance. What I found at this spacious, well-decorated restaurant in Chomedey at the corner of St. Martin Blvd. and Daniel-Johnson Blvd. was far more than I could have imagined.

Nashen does Take-Out: Bistro Amerigo still heating up on Monkland

Bistro Amerigo may be a relatively small eatery, but during the pandemic lockdown the well-known West-End restaurant is doing large scale take-out and delivery. I last reported on Amerigo some two-and-a-half years ago and have returned numerous times with friends and family since then. The local “Garde Manger Italien” (or kitchen pantry) has maintained its flair for fine authentic dishes at reasonable prices, not far from home.

Glenn J. Nashen grabs a kosher slice at PizzaPita Prime

PizzaPita has been going strong in the Snowdon area for more than 30 years. With their recent move across Decarie Boulevard to the former Pizza Hut location in front of Decarie Square, at the corner of Decarie and Vezina, they have a prime spot to garner the attention of thousands of commuters, shoppers and locals each and every day. Hence they’ve rebranded PizzaPita to PizzaPita Prime.

Mike Cohen

Mike Cohen, born and raised in Côte Saint-Luc, has long been active in the community as a volunteer, journalist, and consultant. He profiles restaurants in Montreal and beyond.

mikecohen.ca and @mikecohencsl

We fully enjoyed our very first experience at Lyla Toronto, an upscale Mediterranean-inspired restaurant located at 60 Sudbury Street in the city’s Queen West neighborhood, near Liberty Village and BMO Field. The restaurant opened in 2024 and focuses on Italian, French and contemporary Mediterranean cuisine, combining coastal flavors with modern techniques and some subtle international influences.

Lyla is known for its stylish yet welcoming setting. The space is designed for a variety of occasions, from business lunches and date nights to weekend brunches and private celebrations. It also features a renovated patio and private dining spaces, creating an elegant but approachable dining experience. The elegant dining room can seat 100.

View this post on Instagram

Daniel van Welie and Amen Habtemariam are the co-owners. Van Welie also owns another Toronto restaurant, Cano, which serves up classic Italian cuisine. He grew up in St. Laurent, having left Montreal 15 years ago to head down Highway 401.

On the evening we dined there, the Lyla team had enacted some changes. For starters, a new culinary team of Daniel Kim and Seungho Jeon was brought on board as executive and sous chefs, respectively, and as a result, the menu was relaunched. Kim’s experience includes Michelin-starred Osteria Giulia and Michelin-recommended Sammarco and Opus Restaurants. Jeon was formerly at Sydney’s acclaimed Two Hat restaurant Bennelong and Toronto’s The Chase. Together, the chefs bring a fresh energy to Lyla with a contemporary Mediterranean menu shaped by modern Italian and French cuisine and accented by subtle Asian influences.

Discover a reimagined raw bar showcasing premium Japanese fish and seafood, fresh pasta handcrafted by Famiglia Baldassarre, exceptional steaks and thoughtfully curated tasting experiences.

Lyla offers handcrafted cocktails, an extensive wine selection, and brunch beverage specials. The restaurant also features a “Golden Hour” cocktail program and weekend brunch offerings.

For $110 per person, there are four “chapters” or servings. Chapter I offered the Radicchio & endive (whipped mozzarella di bufala, strawberry, almonds and strawberry vinaigrette) or steak tartare (anchovy oil, pear gel, sous-vide egg yolk and gochujang-gouda crisp). All three of us opted for the latter; the meat was placed on top of the cracker, easy to consume each of the four on the plate with one bite.

We moved to consider Chapter II. I went for the Paccheri Alla Gin (pork cheek, chili-garlic, San Marzano rosé and pecorino romano) while the other two members of the party chose the Risotto Al Funghi (shiitake mushrooms, koji butter, black garlic and puffed buckwheat). The servings for each dish were generous. Mine tasted savory and luxurious, a rich, creamy pasta dish with a surprisingly elegant balance of flavors. As for the risotto, the overall experience can perhaps best be compared to a warm, comforting bowl of creamy rice infused with the concentrated flavor of sautéed mushrooms. It feels elegant yet cozy, making it a classic Italian comfort food.

Onwards we go to Chapter III, which offered a choice of Sea Bream (Japanese madai fillet, ossetra caviar beurre blanc, blood orange and ramp oil) or Steak et Pavé (USDA prime New York striploin, dry aged 21 days, with potato pavé, crème fraiche, Shimada jus and green onion salt). We all chose the steak, which came perfectly prepared medium rare and cut like butter. The pavé, meanwhile, is a French-style potato dish known for its elegant, layered appearance and rich texture. The word pavé means “paving stone” or “cobblestone” in French, referring to the dish’s neat, rectangular blocks.

We did save room for dessert and on this night the pastry team prepared small and very tasty dishes of tiramisu.

You should check out the Grotto, Lyla’s hidden private dining space, designed for intimate gatherings and elevated shared experiences. Tucked away from the main dining room, this refined setting offers a warm, immersive atmosphere paired with a curated chef’s menu and personalized service. Ideal for celebratory dinners, client entertaining, cocktail-style receptions, or special occasions, The Grotto blends exclusivity, ambiance, and Mediterranean hospitality to create a truly memorable event. It features candlelit tables and curated place settings.

Lyla Toronto is located at 60 Sudbury Street. It is open Monday to Friday from Noon to 10 pm and Saturday and Sunday from 10:30 am to 10 pm, which kicks off with brunch. You can log on to www.lylatoronto.com or call (647) 948-7997

Lyla Toronto is an upscale Mediterranean-inspired restaurant with a Montrealer at the helm

Be First to Comment

Leave a Reply Cancel reply