Chuchai combines the rich culinary traditions of Thailand with a compassionate, plant-based approach

Glenn J. Nashen: A new Vietnamese experience at Tran Cantine

When it comes to a Vietnamese dining-out experience in Montreal look no further than the Tran Family. Following up on our recent sensational night out at the newly launched Hang Bar in Old Montreal, Judy and I, along with our friends Dana and Jeff accepted an invitation to Marilyn Tran’s diner in St. Henri, aptly named Tran Cantine.

Review of Restaurant Hang: Glenn J. Nashen: Montreal’s Top-Notch Vietnamese Cuisine

What secret treasures await when a new restaurant opens? One can only imagine, until being lucky enough to be exposed to the sights, smells and tastes of Restaurant Hang. Such was the experience on a recent Thursday night when my wife and I made reservations at what has been billed as the “first haute cuisine Vietnamese restaurant” in Montreal. Sure, our city has plenty of upscale trendy places, but nothing quite like this new concept in Asian fine dining. It tantalized all of our senses, from the moment we walked through the doors and took in the sumptuous decor. Hang arrives as the newest restaurant in the renowned hospitality group JEGantic’s portfolio. Vietnamese cuisine will be elevated from its usual humble “mom and pop” eateries to a refined haute cuisine experience that celebrates the unique flavours of the Southeast Asian country. Montrealers will be fittingly welcomed to come “hang” and indulge in a culinary journey that reflects Vietnam’s rich heritage with an innovative spin on favourite dishes. We were greeted by Joyce Phanekham, the effervescent general manager, who was helpful and attentive to her guests throughout our two-and-a-half-hour dining experience. She promptly introduced us to one of the most personable restauranteurs we have yet to meet, Marylyn Tran. Marylyn teamed up with her husband Alain and the folks from JEGantic to create an experiential and uniquely Asian venue for traditional, authentic Vietnamese cuisine in a class of its own. And who better to know how to achieve this pinnacle other than the Tran family who already own several restaurants under the Tran Cantine banner? After all, Marylyn was raised in her parent’s kitchen where she acquired her unique taste, over at their St. Denis Street Vietnamese restaurant, Pho Tay Ho. The family started this business back in 1986 and it is still going strong. Indeed, the name Hang is a nod of appreciation to Marylyn’s mom. Marylyn grew up cherishing the culinary and cultural intricacies that captivated their family, friends and clientele and eventually branched out, opening her own chain of traditional Vietnamese restos. Located between Griffintown and Old Montreal, Hang will surely attract the young in-crowd, as well as tourists seeking a memorable night out on the town. Marylyn introduced us to her right-hand man, Marco, a knowledgeable and experienced server and cook who took care of us for our date-night. He described in great detail each dish served, with ease and familiarity as though he himself was the chef. We started out with, what else, Pho Wagyu Consommé, a classic noodle soup that Hang has enhanced with its elaborate preparation: 14 hours of cooking over at Tran Cantine. It had many delicate ingredients including Wagyu beef and fresh rice noodles. The aroma of truffle alone made this a mouth-watering winning choice. Judy’s Franco-Viet Salmon Tartare tasted “like the ocean.” This dish of salmon was served with old-fashioned mustard, crispy rice, shallots, green onions and long red peppers. My Five-Spiced Buttered Scalloped – Ngo Vi Houng consisted of three pan-fried scallops each nestled in its own Asian soup spoon and bathed in secret fish sauce. They were garnished with crushed nuts and a hint of lemon making them simply perfect. Judy enjoyed her main course of Vegan Red Curry, a locally sourced seasonal vegetable medley stewed in red curry paste, coconut milk, palm sugar and julienned taro. I literally licked my fingers while eating a homemade order of Banh Mi Foie Gras. Imagine pan-seared foie gras, caramelized onions, pickled carrots and daikon, cucumber, coriander, and homemade mayo with Hang special sauce on a soft baguette, an ode to Alain’s native city of Paris. It was served on a large banana leaf, and the garnish on all their plates was a work of art. So too was the elegantly designed cutlery. Joyce describes Hang as a chill environment to linger, drink, talk and share delicious dishes among friends. All the staff were extremely personable, friendly and helpful. The decor features exotic nature elements that mimic the dense greenery of Da Nang’s jungle. The soaring ceilings, leafy chandeliers and striking wood columns add an impressive grandeur to the place. There was a great vibe throughout our evening with lots of smiling, happy young patrons. Indeed, owing to the immersive bar environment diners must be 18 or older at Hang. Finally, our dessert was served. Gateau au Pandan was quite distinct and attractive but we both decided that the Creamy Coconut Flan with Banana was the clear winner. Hang has a flair for mixology. From our opening round of shots to our cocktails, and mocktails and ending with a Vietnamese Coffee Martini, they are pros at presentation, taste and hospitality. Marylyn and her crew may be new to the high-end market but the high-end market is also new to Vietnamese cuisine. They are truly passionate about their mission and are on a winning track. Our experience was delightful and our evening was enriched by their warm and hospitable demeanour. We felt like we were hanging out (no pun intended) with friends and family around an exquisitely prepared table of outstanding cultural cuisine. Who could ask for more? Hang is poised to become Montreal’s new must-visit dining destination. It is located at 686 Notre Dame Ouest in Old Montreal, Tuesdays to Saturdays from 5:00 p.m. Visit hangbar.ca or call 514 910-2227.

Glenn J. Nashen’s Five Alarm Culinary Adventure at Sushi Taxi

Not even a major shutdown of Notre Dame Street in Little Burgundy could keep us away from a gastronomic luxury take-out of sushi and Asian fusion at Sushi Taxi. No exaggeration! The fire department literally closed down the street for an emergency. However, the conscientious staff called to say, ‘stand by’. As soon as the ‘all clear’ sounded we headed into the bistro-chique locale.

Glenn J. Nashen discovers more than a good dinner at Casa Grecque in Chomedey

I was looking for a tasty, family-friendly take-out dinner and Casa Grecque in Chomedey was my next pick. My family and I love plentiful Greek salads and tangy appetizers, particularly during long, cold Quebec winters when delicious, plump red tomatoes are not in abundance. What I found at this spacious, well-decorated restaurant in Chomedey at the corner of St. Martin Blvd. and Daniel-Johnson Blvd. was far more than I could have imagined.

Nashen does Take-Out: Bistro Amerigo still heating up on Monkland

Bistro Amerigo may be a relatively small eatery, but during the pandemic lockdown the well-known West-End restaurant is doing large scale take-out and delivery. I last reported on Amerigo some two-and-a-half years ago and have returned numerous times with friends and family since then. The local “Garde Manger Italien” (or kitchen pantry) has maintained its flair for fine authentic dishes at reasonable prices, not far from home.

Glenn J. Nashen grabs a kosher slice at PizzaPita Prime

PizzaPita has been going strong in the Snowdon area for more than 30 years. With their recent move across Decarie Boulevard to the former Pizza Hut location in front of Decarie Square, at the corner of Decarie and Vezina, they have a prime spot to garner the attention of thousands of commuters, shoppers and locals each and every day. Hence they’ve rebranded PizzaPita to PizzaPita Prime.

Alex, one of the managers, showcases a number orders

Mike Cohen

Mike Cohen, born and raised in Côte Saint-Luc, has long been active in the community as a volunteer, journalist, and consultant. He profiles restaurants in Montreal and beyond.

mikecohen.ca and @mikecohencsl

Last summer I was contacted by a group promoting Thai Select certified restaurants across Canada. While in Toronto, I dropped by one of the winners and truly enjoyed the tasting. So when the opportunity came to do so again, here in Montreal at ChuChai on St. Denis Street, I jumped at it.

The Thai SELECT is a mark of certification awarded by the Ministry of Commerce, Royal Thai Government, to guarantee the authenticity of Thai restaurants and Thai food products, meaning the food being served or merchandised has been prepared with proper ingredients and spices in the traditional Thai style of cooking. The objective of the program is to increase recognition of quality Thai restaurants and Thai food products, and to encourage Thai restaurant operators and food producers to raise the quality of their products and services while maintaining authenticity.

While some restaurants in Montreal have earned the Thai SELECT distinction, I chose ChuChai (https://www.chuchai.ca/)

This is a vegan restaurant using plant-based products to recreate traditional Thai dishes. Known as one of the best vegetarian and vegan restaurants in Montreal since its opening in 1997, Chef Lily Sirikittikul created a tasty menu with the inspiration of her family recipes and Thai cuisine.

A vegan Thai restaurant combines the rich culinary traditions of Thailand with a compassionate, plant-based approach. By replacing animal products with fresh vegetables, tofu, mushrooms, and coconut-based ingredients, it delivers the same satisfying sweet, spicy, sour, and savory flavors that define authentic Thai cuisine while supporting a healthier and more sustainable lifestyle.

First off, let me say how delicious the meal was. When I looked at the menu, I noticed that many of the items merely had their names, but not the ingredients. Of course, the servers will fill you in, but as one of them told me: “When you come here, we want you to look at the menu and order your favorite dishes as if you are dining at any Thai restaurant.”

On this occasion I dined with my mom. Neither of us had ever been to a vegan Thai restaurant before, so we did not know quite what to expect. A number of the staff assisted us, including Alicia, DJ and Alex. Alicia got us started by describing the many items and then making some very good recommendations. Alex, who serves as one of the managers, approached us and made further suggestions.

We started with some drinks, the Princess Thai Sweet Fusion of Prosecco Peach and then came the food.

I had a tasty wonton soup. By replacing the traditional pork or shrimp filling with plant-based ingredients and using a vegetable-based broth, you really cannot tell the difference. Mom went for the Thom Kha: hot lemongrass soup with coconut milk and vegan chicken.

The Kia Satay was an excellent and dead ringer take on peanut butter dumplings. We also shared fresh spring rolls with peanut sauce.

For the main course, we elected to go with the Royal Pad Thai platter times two, with some additions. There were Thai-style fried noodles, tofu, vegan chicken, vegan shrimp, vegan beef, vegan duck and vegan fried rice. I was absolutely blown away. If I hadn’t known they were plant-based, I would have sworn they were the real thing. The vegan duck was rich and flavorful with an incredible texture; the vegan beef was savory and satisfying, and the vegan shrimp had that perfect tender bite that makes seafood lovers smile. Every dish was beautifully seasoned and packed with flavor. This was hands-down one of the best vegan meals I’ve ever had. Whether you’re vegan or not, this is the kind of food that makes you forget you’re eating plant-based alternatives!

Dessert was just as satisfying, with plant-based chocolate and carrot cakes. For the former, each bite was rich, moist, and deeply chocolaty, with a velvety texture that melted on my tongue. The cocoa flavor was bold and luxurious, while the frosting added a silky sweetness that balanced the cake perfectly. The latter offered a different but equally delightful experience, said Mom. It was wonderfully soft and tender, she said, packed with sweet grated carrots that added natural moisture and a subtle earthy sweetness.

Alex is the nephew of founder Lily. He told us that back in the early 90s, she was one of the first to open a Thai restaurant, doing so on Laurier Avenue. Soon after, she became Buddhist and had an about-face concerning her cooking style. That is when the vegan formula entered the picture. She established ChuChai in 1997 at its present quarters and created a menu using family recipes and traditional Thai culinary techniques adapted to plant-based ingredients. Her cooking focuses on authentic Thai flavors while recreating classic Thai dishes using vegan ingredients and meat alternatives.

On the night we were there, most of the 50 seats were taken. They also have a nice seasonal terrasse overlooking trendy St. Denis Street.

ChuChai is located at 4088 Saint Denis St. It is open Tuesday to Thursday from 5 pm to 9 pm and Friday and Saturday from 5 pm to 10 pm. Log on to https://www.chuchai.ca/ or call (514) 843-4194.

Chuchai combines the rich culinary traditions of Thailand with a compassionate, plant-based approach

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