The historic York on William (YOW) building, which encompasses Starling Restaurant & Bar and Apothecary Cocktail Lounge, represents a must-visit and we were thrilled to dine there for the second successive year. The latter are part of a multiple-dining concept featuring a rooftop terrace and street-level patio and located in one of the oldest buildings in Ottawa, dating back to 1875. Early occupants included an undertaker, a baker, and a wholesaler, which reflects the diverse commercial activity of the ByWard Market in the 19th Century.
Starling is Ottawa’s new concept which elevates any night out with hand-crafted cocktails and a refreshing, modern menu that draws inspiration from bold flavors and fresh ingredients. Here you step into an inviting and stylish atmosphere, built for creating an incredible experience.
The 12,000-square-foot building was purchased in 2020 for $5 million. Co-owner John Borsten’s business partners in this venture are Pat Charbonneau and Ian Darveshali. It is spread over four levels, with Apothecary, YOW and Starling each catering to different audiences under the same roof and able to serve 500 diners at a time. The seasonal patios are big draws: one at street level can seat 50 while the rooftop has room for 60. Capacity for both can be increased for cocktail receptions.
Apothecary is described as “a nod to medicinal cures of which bitters, tonics and spirits all play a role. Here they believe in using real botanicals, house-made syrups and tinctures, to heal the body, mind and soul.”
Starling brings you contemporary dishes from timeless classics to personal recipes with a fondness for locality—designed to be loved by one or shared by many. Their mixologists can serve up a broad range of tasty concoctions, either mixed, stirred, or shaken and inspired by local ingredients and international techniques.
Starling is named after a highly social bird that likes to travel in large flocks. That is why you will see decorative bird cages in the restaurant. Our table had one. It was Sofia Santiso Borsten who created the Starling concept and oversaw the design. Even the doors they inherited were restored and now serve as a privacy wall for a table near the bar. The same goes for the original lamps, which were repainted. Of course, the wallpaper features colorful birds.
While we dined on the rooftop last year, on this particularly warm evening we chose to be seated in a booth at the beautifully air-conditioned main level.
Our wonderful server Rory started us off with some drinks: a scarlet tanager, an Elderflower egret and an Abigail placebo drink.
Following a look at the menu, we began with 12 oysters. They were of good size and went very quickly among the three of us
Next, we chose something new, a Mediterranean platter. It was highlighted by freshly baked and piping hot focaccia bread along with marinated roasted peppers, salsa verde and Cerignola olives. Now I usually try and limit my bread intake before the main course, but this focaccia was simply too good!
We also enjoyed a bowl of caprese risotto with shrimp. This dish offers a delightful symphony of flavors. The creamy risotto provides a rich and velvety texture, with each grain of rice perfectly cooked to a tender, yet slightly al dente consistency. Infused with a hint of garlic and onion, the base is subtly seasoned, allowing the star ingredients to shine. Tender, succulent shrimp add a touch of elegance and a hint of sweetness, complementing the dish’s Mediterranean essence.
For the main course, we ordered the steak frites and the beef tenderloin.
Steak frites is a classic French dish that epitomizes simple, high-quality comfort food. Here it featured a perfectly cooked 10-ounce striploin, served with crispy, golden-brown French fries. The steak was seasoned with salt and pepper and cooked to our preferred level of medium rare. The combination of a juicy, tender steak and crispy fries offers a delightful contrast in textures and flavors, making it a beloved staple here at Starling. Meanwhile, the six-ounce AAA beef tenderloin came with whipped potatoes and bordelaise sauce. This is a premium cut of meat renowned for its tenderness and rich flavor. The “AAA” designation indicates a high-quality grade, meaning the beef has excellent marbling, which enhances its juiciness and taste. This cut is often considered one of the most desirable steaks due to its buttery texture and subtle, yet robust, beef flavor.
For dessert, we shared the delicious sticky toffee pudding. This is a classic British dessert that’s beloved for its rich, comforting flavors. Imagine a moist, spongy cake made with finely chopped dates, which gives it a deliciously sticky texture. This cake is drenched in a luscious toffee sauce that is both sweet and buttery. Served warm, it comes with a dollop of vanilla ice cream.
Starling is located at 54 York Street in the Byward Market. Hours of operation are 4 pm to 11 pm Tuesday and Wednesday, 11 am to midnight Thursday and Friday and 9 am to midnight Saturday and Sunday. You can call 613.421.0820 or log on to www.starlingottawa.ca.
There is patio seating at street level therefore accommodating those for people in wheelchairs.