There is a trendy new eatery in town. Chez Greenberg opened in January at 5159 du Parc in the Mile End with the simplest of menus: homemade smoked salmon, the squished knish, latkes and coffee. Homemade pickles are on the way.
Owners Jake Greenberg and Daniel Feinglos have created a concept that is already resonating with the population. It is still very much a work in progress. There is no sign outside yet and the small dining room, which seats about 40 people, will be reconfigured and spiced up. When I dropped by, Snowdon Deli co-owner Hart Fishman was among those checking the place out and giving it a big thumbs up.
Upon entering the premises you can scan the QR code for the menu or access it from the website. The ever-so-charismatic Greenberg gave me a warm welcome. He previously worked at the family business, Waxman’s Menswear just a few doors away. When the pandemic hit he needed to find a new way to earn a living so he turned to producing his father Leslie’s smoked salmon recipe under the moniker “Zaidies.” That was the name of the restaurant his grandparents owned at the old Rabiner’s Hotel in the Laurentians. Initially, he opened an online lox shop and a storefront around the corner from St. Viateur Bagel. Via Museum of Jewish Montreal Director Zev Moses, that eventually led him to Feinglos, who was putting together an aquaponics project. The latter refers to a food production system that couples aquaculture (raising aquatic animals such as fish, crayfish, snails or prawns in tanks) with hydroponics (cultivating plants in water) whereby the nutrient-rich aquaculture water is fed to hydroponically grown plants. It is called Agriculture du Coin. Feinglos needed a retail component and that is how Chez Greenberg was eventually born.
“So the decision I made was to create an environment and space that emulated my Bubbies kitchen,” Greenberg said. “I even went to New York City to check out the deli scene. It became clear to me that we did not need another traditional deli. Chez Greenberg is simple and over time we will surely evolve to offer more options. I am not a restaurateur; I’m a consumer. That is how I am building this business, with the right people on board.”
In the space next door, Feinglos will set up an urban farm where he will grow herbs and salads and raise rainbow trout. The café is intended to serve as a showcase and boutique for the project.
I thoroughly enjoyed my smoked salmon sandwich, served on a white seed bagel with all of the fixings. The last time I had a squished knish was decades ago when I went to the old Blossom Pool. Chez Greenberg loads them up with caramelized onions and steamy mashed potatoes. They are then baked and placed on a grilled panini-press, which is where the magic happens. I always remember the squished knish as pure comfort food at its finest. As you sink your teeth in, the warm, savory filling melds perfectly with the crunch of the outside. It’s the kind of food that makes you want to savor every last bite.
Finally along came the potato latke, with hand-whipped lemon and herb cream cheese. The smooth, creamy texture of the topping complemented the crispiness of the latke, creating a balanced bite that’s both indulgent and refreshing.
Jake’s brother is Adam Greenberg, a former Montreal FM radio host. “My brother and I have always been very active on social networks, sharing our lives on a daily basis,” he says. “When my dad would make his salmon and we’d talk about it, everyone would ask where to buy it.”
You can also order smoked salmon, knishes and latkes to go.
Chez Greenberg is located at 5159 du Parc, just south of Fairmount, and is open Wednesday to Sunday from 10 am to 4 pm. Log on to www.chezgreenberg.com or call 514-348-0000.
Mike Cohen, born and raised in Côte Saint-Luc, has long been active in the community as a volunteer, journalist, and consultant. He profiles restaurants in Montreal and beyond.
mikecohen.ca