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Duc de Lorraine for dinner:  A different take on Montreal’s iconic French Bistro, Bakery, Pastry Shop and Caterer

    General Manager Peter Maniatis

    Readers will be familiar with the fact that Duc de Lorraine, the magnificent French bistro, bakery, pastry shop and caterer, is one of my favorite spots in Montreal. It first opened in 1952 at the corner of  Côte des Neiges Road and Queen Mary in Montreal’s West End and has truly thrived under the ownership of the dynamic Victoria Sørensen in the last 15 years, during which time she has truly developed this into a full-service operation.

    My previous visits were to experience their superb breakfast and brunch menus. We also regularly drop by for special occasions to purchase desserts. This time we came for dinner. As we were seated on the beautiful terrasse,  we had our first look at their extraordinary evening selections. It was a treat to be sure.

    General Manager Peter Maniatis, who always gets an “A” for customer service, personally took care of us, along with server JoJo and a host of others. Teamwork is the mantra at this place.

    We started with glasses of Saint Germain Spritz and a matcha lemonade. Our server then brought us some tasty toasted pieces of French bread with garlic and butter.

    For appetizers, we decided to share 12 splendid Prince Edward Island oysters and the most delicious slices of salmon tataki,  with ponzu sauce and sesame seeds.  

     Picture a dozen exquisite Prince Edward Island oysters, each a testament to the pristine waters they’re cultivated in. Their shells gleam with a pearlescent sheen, hinting at the briny delights within. As you lift one to your lips, imagine the first salty kiss of the sea followed by a sweet, buttery richness that melts on your tongue. These oysters embody freshness, plump and juicy, with a crisp, clean finish that lingers, leaving you craving another bite of maritime perfection

    As for the salmon tataki, imagine delicate slices of fresh, lightly-seared salmon, glistening with a hint of golden crust on the outside while remaining tender and raw inside. The salmon was cut into thin slices to showcase its vibrant pink-orange hue. The dish is elevated by a drizzle of ponzu sauce, a citrusy soy-based dressing that adds a zesty and umami-rich flavor profile. The ponzu sauce provides a refreshing tanginess that complements the richness of the salmon without overpowering its natural taste. To finish, the sprinkling of sesame seeds adds a nutty aroma and slight crunch, enhancing both the visual appeal and texture of the dish. The combination of these elements creates a harmonious balance of flavors—savory, tangy, and subtly nutty—that makes salmon tataki with ponzu sauce and sesame seeds a delightful and sophisticated dish.

    For the main course, we elected to share the restaurant’s trademark indulgent lobster risotto, elevated with the earthy richness of truffle oil and the savory depth of parmesan cheese, creating a luxurious harmony of flavors and textures. This is not a food item you can find at too many dining establishments.  

    To accompany the risotto, we went for their succulent lamb chops, perfectly seared to a tender pink center, and adorned with a vibrant green chimichurri sauce. The chimichurri, a harmonious blend of fresh parsley, garlic, and tangy vinegar, draped the chops in herbaceous intensity, offering a tantalizing contrast to the rich, savory meat. Nestled alongside were crisp-tender vegetables, their colors popping against the plate. Together, each bite married the robust flavors of the lamb with the zesty brightness of the chimichurri, creating a culinary symphony that delights the senses. 

    You can also choose from items such as filet mignon, calamari, burrata salad, onion soup, pasta primavera, shrimp linguini and salmon.

    Decadent, sumptuous, rich, luxurious, heavenly, mouthwatering, sinful, delightful, opulent, scrumptious and divine. These words best describe the sensational and endless dessert selection here. 

    We ordered four different dessert items, agreeing to do a tasting of each and pack the leftovers up to enjoy in the following days. 

    Here is what we chose: the chocolate caramel salé New York roll (circular croissant filled with chocolate pastry cream and topped with salted butter caramel); the fraisier (vanilla sponge cake, vanilla mousseline cream, fresh strawberries and a thin layer of almond paste);  the mousse rocher (composed of chocolate sponge cake, praline mousseline cream and hazelnut ganache); and the croissant dulce-leche, better known as the “crookie” croissant. The latter has become a worldwide sensation in the last year, but you need to go to a dessert specialty shop like Duc de Lorraine to experience the real thing. The concept is simple: marry cookie dough into a croissant and then bake it again. Oh my was that good!  “A new generation of clients discovered Duc, when our product hit over 500,000 views on social media,” Victoria notes.

    Before you leave, you must take a walk through the restaurant and look at the glass showcase of all they have to offer for dessert. You will no doubt want to take more stuff home or, at the very least, do so for a friend or family member. Of course, a lot of brides and grooms come here to order their wedding cakes.  “We take care of many weddings,” Victoria says. “We deliver   cakes to halls, hotels and rural locations in the townships and Laurentians.’’

    Lots of people come to celebrate birthdays. “We play a French song and the staff comes with sparkling candles and smiling faces clapping,” adds Victoria.

    Duc de Lorraine welcomes over 250, 000 customers a year, many of whom have been regulars for decades. The restaurant has a tremendous following on Instagram and Facebook, with some posts exceeding one million views.

    We certainly will return soon for the brunch.  There are so many fabulous choices. Standing out are the superb renditions of eggs benedict, and avocado toast with salmon, and a nice selection of omelets, pancakes, and  French Toast.

    Duc de Lorraine has 52 seats inside and two covered terraces that can accommodate 100 diners. Victoria keeps the outdoor seating in place until the end of October. It can be insulated on a cool day or evening.

    Victoria recently celebrated her 40th birthday at where else but at her restaurant? There were 65  guests in attendance, first enjoying cocktails and then a three-course dinner, concluding with dessert Duc de Lorraine is located at 5002 Chemin de la Cote des Neiges. Opening hours are from 6:30 am to 10:30 pm. every day of the year.  You can call them at (514) 731-4128  or log on to www.ducdelorraine.ca

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