One of Ottawa’s newest restaurants is Ember, which opened on Clarence Street in the Byward Market last June. The name goes well with its Argentinian-style charcoal grill and wood-fired pizza oven. Cody Nicholl and Kyle Wilson are partners in this endeavor; Nicholl is a noted mixologist here while Wilson is the head chef, having honed his skills as head of the food and beverage division at the Canadian Tire Centre. They also run nearby Bar Ocelli and Lowertown Brewery.
Located in the former premises of the Cornerstone Bar and Grill, Ember can accommodate 105 people in the multi-level dining room, with a front patio for 44 and another on the side set to make its debut next summer. Both will be handicapped-accessible. “Honestly, I did not think Kyle would jump ship with me,” Nichol said of his star recruit. “It has been great to see him build a team, all of whom were handpicked. We did not even have to advertise.”
Nicholl said a goal for Ember is to become a destination higher-end restaurant with friendly pricing. Because of his background as a mixologist, Nicholl is proud of the array of cocktails and wines offered. “The Ottawa restaurant scene is really going through a transition stage,” he said. “I think it has provided a platform for young restaurateurs.
There is live music every Thursday night and a great ambiance all around.
At Ember, it is all about sharing and that is precisely what we did. After some drinks, a couple of matcha milk punches and a chardonnay, we ordered a half dozen Quebec/New Brunswick oysters, accompanied by fresh horseradish, lemon, hot sauce and house-made mignonette. Next came beef tartare with roasted marrow, each offering distinct rich flavors and textures. The tartare contained Dijon, gherkins, aged provolone, chives and brioche. As for the bone marrow, it took on a slightly caramelized edge.
Spicy crispy tuna is a fan-favorite at Ember and we could see why. This Nigiri-style dish comes in a beautiful set of three pieces. The flavorful raw tuna is tossed in a red Thai curry aioli and carefully piled on the bed of crispy rice and topped with a ponzu sauce, sesame and serrano peppers.
The charcoal-kissed salmon crudo was superb, served with miso aioli, citrus ponzu, sesame, serrano, garlic oil, orange soy glaze and crispy shallots.
There was something new we all tried called wood-fired halloumi. Imported from the isle of Cyprus, this Mediterranean delicacy had cheese lovers like us wanting more. It was pan-fried in a savory brown butter to give it that golden crust, then topped with sweet figs, juicy orange and tart lemon gremolata to bring together this incredibly flavorful appetizer. It is finished with a honey drizzle, sesame and fresh dill.
The zucchini pesto pizza was another great choice. A lean, green, flavor-packed machine this beautifully unique pizza has a homemade pesto-based and three-cheese blend. Cooked to perfection in the wood-fired oven, it is topped with red onion, sliced zucchini and toasted pistachios to finish.
We concluded with the 12-ounce char-grilled striploin. It was juicy, tender and grilled over charcoal to perfection, topped with some rich bordelaise sauce.
For dessert, we shared the Turkish lokma, made of leavened and deep-fried dough balls, soaked in syrup and coated with cinnamon.
The menu had many items that we will look at trying on our next visit, such as the whole roasted branzino, the roasted half-chicken and the rigatoni. Sides include baby potatoes flavored with pesto, dill, and yogurt, grilled asparagus and Brussels sprouts. Ember is located at 92 Clarence Street in the Byward Market. Log on to www.emberottawa.com or call 613-562-4700. They are open Tuesday to Sunday from 5 pm to 1 am.