The French brasserie Chez Lionel, part of Groupe Grandio, has opened its sixth location and first in downtown Montreal at 1258 Boul. René-Levesque Ouest, just steps away from the Bell Centre.
Groupe Grandio, of course, owns La Cage Brasserie Sportive, Gibbys, Moishes, P.F., Chang’s and a number of other restaurants. Chez Lionel made its debut in Boucherville in 2013. The name was inspired by the street Lionel-Daunais. Last December, we dined at the location in the Ottawa suburb of Kanata. The intention is to expand across the country. The other spots are in Boucherville, Brossard, Sainte-Thérèse and Laval.
Chef Frédéric Dufort and his team took advantage of the opening of this debut Montreal location to update the menu. He even travelled to France to do research. “We’re more in line with what a French brasserie is,” says Guillaume Brière, executive vice president of independent brands at Grandio, the group behind Chez Lionel.
The new menu features “French brasserie classics” such as lobster thermidor, the best beef strip steak I may have tasted anywhere, duck confit served with curly endive salad and bacon, and leeks with vinaigrette. The decor retains the brand’s signature look, with chandeliers, an oversized wine cellar, and a magnificent bar that takes center stage in the window-filled space.
This new location has 155 seats on the main floor and 60 on the mezzanine. The latter can be used for private groups or individual tables. “Recently, we’ve been hosting cocktail events for various companies, and we’ve been very busy, especially with all the events happening at the Bell Centre,” said Manager Raphaël Autran. “We can see their impact on our sales.”
Autran notes that lunch service is particularly busy. The restaurant is fully booked on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays, while Mondays and Fridays tend to be quieter. “We’re proud to be the only French brasserie in the area, offering a menu that stands out from the other nearby restaurants,” he said.
We had an excellent server in Naomi who provided us with a nice overview of the new menu. There were three of us for dinner. We started with some cocktails and began sharing an order of 12 delicious oysters as well as some salmon and beef tartare, accompanied by chips and crackers. For the main course, we chose the lobster thermidor and the beef ribs with pepper. Lobster thermidor is a classic French dish known for its rich, luxurious flavor and elegant presentation. It features lobster meat cooked in a creamy, wine-based sauce, then returned to the lobster shell, topped with cheese and baked until golden and bubbly. Each bite offered a balance of flavors—sweetness from the lobster, creaminess from the sauce, and umami from the cheese. It’s indulgent without being overwhelming, the kind of meal that makes you slow down, savor, and close your eyes for a second just to appreciate how good it is.
As for the beef ribs, we shared them three ways, like the lobster thermidor and we had more than enough left to take home for dinner the next night. They were perfectly cooked medium rare and resembled more of a porterhouse steak than ribs. Each rib was individually sliced for us, with a generous amount of meat on the bone and easy to cut. It had a warm, juicy taste and was just as good the next day when warmed up in the microwave. On the side, we chose the asparagus and garlic mashed potatoes
We capped things off with two decadent desserts: the profiterole with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce and the lemon meringue verrine with almond crumble.
Look out next for Groupe Grandio’s new Japanese brasserie Iru Izakaya in the Quartier des Spectacles.
Dufort rose to fame after appearing on the TV show Les Chefs! Initially specializing in market cuisine, his talent and creativity led him to familiarize himself with different techniques through internships, notably at Benu, the three-star Michelin restaurant in San Francisco, then in Brooklyn. At the helm of Chez Lionel, he reinvents the classics of French brasserie-style cuisine.
The restaurant entrance and the main level are completely wheelchair accessible. There is also a washroom on the same floor.
Chez Lionel is located at 1250 René-Levesque Boulevard West. It is open Monday to Wednesday, 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Thursday and Friday, 11:30 am to 11 pm; Saturday, 4 pm to 11 pm; and Sunday, 4 pm to 10 pm. For more information, call 514-360-9590 or log on to www.chezlionel.ca
Mike Cohen, born and raised in Côte Saint-Luc, has long been active in the community as a volunteer, journalist, and consultant. He profiles restaurants in Montreal and beyond.
mikecohen.ca
So how much was the meal? I’m sure yiu have the receipt??