I have been a regular at Ryu, a modern Yōshoku (Western + Asian) restaurant specializing in high-end, sustainable sushi, for many years now. Initially, it was the Westmount location on Sherbrooke Street West that drew me in and then came Peel Street downtown, where I got to know the amazing staff quite well.
Four years ago, a trendy new locale in Griffintown opened its doors. When some ventilation issues arose in Westmount, that spot closed about a year and a half ago. While there were other options for clients to still get their RYU fix, many missed the culinary talents of Chef Michael Godin, who decided at that time to take a sabbatical.
I had been in communication with RYU Group COO Jason Lamarre about experiencing the Griffintown location. So, I was pleasantly surprised when he called to tell me that Chef Michael had returned to the fold and was about to weave his magic there. I booked a table for two immediately and actually made my Griffintown debut. Chef Michael did not disappoint us.
Chef Michael brings unmatched precision and mastery in sashimi and nigiri. His return to the family signals a new chapter for the Griffintown experience, says Lamarre. He honed his skills in culinary school at Lasalle College. After doing an internship with celebrity Chef Antonio Park, he ended up getting hired and spent some seven years working under one of the top sushi chefs in the world. After a few other stops, he heard about the planned opening of RYU Westmount in 2018 and reached out to Lamarre. He was hired and the rest is history.
“We are so thrilled to have Michael back with us,” said Lamarre. “He became quite a household name during his time in Westmount. Clients have continued to ask about him. Now we can point them to Griffintown.”
Griffintown is a spacious and attractive facility that can seat 65 diners inside and 30 more on a gorgeous seasonal patio overlooking a condo outdoor pool..
In the case of Ryu, which also operates a Pierre Elliott Trudeau Airport counter, each venue is different. Peel is cozy and, of course, right on the main drag of downtown. In Griffintown, there is valet parking for a fee and a really, yet mellow, vibe. The serving staff works as a team and while another Michael took care of our orders, others made their way to our table as items were ready.
We started with some drinks, a Watermelon margarita and Old Man Lee mocktail.
Next, we listened attentively to some menu recommendations.
The lobster dumplings came first, a nice mix of lobster, shrimp and chives, served in yuzu kosho dashi.
One of Chef Michael’s early new additions, the Waygu tacos, were amazing. They came with gochujang (a fermented chili paste), tomato ponzu, yuzukosho aioli and japapeno. The baked crab handroll was also something unique to try: two pieces of crab mixed, wrapped with soy paper and containing some spicy mayo.
Now remember his item, another newbie from Chef Michael: the toro tartare nakaochi. Here you have sturgeon gold caviar, shiso, premium Japanese nori truffle and nikiri sauce. It was a real treat.
From the hot kitchen came some miso black cod, roasted and glazed. It melted in our mouths!
As for platters, our server advised us about Chef Michael’s new Moriawase, already their signature tasting item: six sashimi, six nigiri and one futomaki, noted as the most classic sushi roll from Japan.
We did save room for dessert, sharing the decadent chocolate fudge cake with ice cream..
Known for its fresh ingredients and unique philosophy, Ryu has specifically gained notice for its fresh and delicious maki, sashimi, and nigiri plates, as well as creating an original and relaxed vibe with each and every location. These harmonious dining experiences are the product of the “Eating Ryu” mission – the brand’s commitment to bringing to its customers the freshest meals that feel great, inside and out. This mission is further realized through Ryu’s strong dedication to sustainability and ethical farming practices. This means all their fish are farmed responsibly, or wild caught, and are 100 percent Ocean Wise Certified.
“We are bringing in the best quality products directly from Japan,” said Lamarre. “We make our order and 24 hours later it is in our kitchen.”
In order to cater to the younger crowd, Ryu will be introducing a “later night” menu for only $55 beginning at 8:30 pm daily in Griffintown and on Peel.
As for the two sit-down locations, Lamarre says: “The foundation remains the same, but there are subtle differences, from Chef Michael at Griffintown and Chef Satochi at Peel.”
Ryu Griffintown is located at 388 Richmond Street. It is open from Wednesday to Sunday
from 6 pm to 10 pm and from Friday to Saturday from 6 pm to 11 pm. You can call (514) 446-1954, e-mail griffintown@ryutapas.com, or log on to http://www.ryusushi.ca. You can dine in, take out, or order delivery.