While I did drop by and see the new version of the iconic Moishes Steakhouse at Victoria Square when it opened just more than a year ago, I decided to wait until the debut of its beautiful terrasse to officially enjoy my first official meal.
The Grandio Group, which also owns Le Cage Brasserie Sportive, Gibbys and a host of other dining establishments, purchased Moishes towards the end of 2018. Less than two years later, the doors to its fabled St. Laurent Blvd closed and many people thought this was the end of the road. This was in the midst of the COVID-19 pandemic, yet Grandio Group President and CEO Jean Bédard maintained that Moishes would rise again in a new location. On June 14, 2023, that did indeed occur and since that time it has been welcoming long-time clients, many new ones and a lot of tourists.
Founded in 1938 by Moishe Lighter, Moishes new home benefited from an investment of more than $5 million that has enabled it to host more than 200 diners in a 7,000-square-foot space and a team of 160 employees headed by General Manager Jean Michel Bourassa. The old Moishes was on the second floor of an old building. This still practically spanking new facility is at all ground level and I must say the winding terrasse, which can accommodate 75 people at tables and on some couches is a beauty!
“Moishes is much more than a restaurant,” said Bédard. “It’s a unique story of courageous, authentic and passionate immigrant entrepreneurs who celebrate their roots but are even prouder to be Montrealers. Grandio Group had both the responsibility of preserving the restaurant’s soul and cachet and the opportunity to write the latest chapter in a story that spans 85 years. Moishes is one of Montreal’s oldest culinary institutions still in operation today, thanks to an offering whose quality has never wavered. We are proud to contribute our expertise to its future.”
The restaurant is divided into four rooms — a bar area, two distinct dining rooms and a private dining room — to recreate the warm, intimate ambiance of the former space on Boulevard Saint-Laurent.
Moishes has borne witness to succeeding eras that have shaped the Montreal of today. The Grandio Group strategically designed each of the restaurant’s spaces with the collaboration of local artists to evoke the memories and traditions of Moishes. The new concept was created by Patty Xenos Design (PXDI), who had previously worked with Leonard Lighter, son of Moishes’ founder, on the renovation of this dining institution in 2011.
“The new location is dynamic, bold and very bright,” said Xenos, President and Creative Director at PXDI. “ Normally, this is a great asset, but our challenge was to recreate the warmth, comfort and unpretentious high-quality environment of Moishes. We chose a timeless design, through which the legend and DNA of the establishment live on. This resolutely chic venue is distinguished by its simplicity and the use of responsible materials. We have also retained original objects, such as the chandeliers and pewter ceiling tiles, as well as the butcher’s scales, which will be on display in the open kitchen.”
As soon as they arrive, customers can contemplate and view a mural by Jason Wasserman that tells the story of Moishes through the ages to the present day. In the bar area, the centrepiece reuses the onyx of the original bar. Photographs by David Leonard Sidaway grace the first dining room, alongside the historic map of Montreal from the National Archives, also salvaged from the former space. Original temporary collections from the Canada Council Art Bank are presented in the second dining room. The private dining room features a specially created work by internationally renowned Montreal artist André Monet.
The restaurant’s menu retains several Eastern-European-inspired dishes from the original men, notes Director of Operations Guillaume Briere. At the same time, it has been redesigned by Murteza Talu, the executive chef for both Moishes and Gibbys. In addition to USDA Prime Beef — the highest quality of beef on the market — a variety of new dishes have been added seasonally, including fish and vegetarian dishes, among others.
We were welcomed to Moishes by very familiar face in David Zaltzman. A veteran in the restaurant business, he was a mainstay at Moishes for years. He is a master at customer service and makes his way around the dining room -and the terrasse- to ensure that everything is going smoothly. He’ll even assist the servers with an order.
Our waiter, Louis, started us off with some drinks: a Mr. and Mrs. Tranquille for me and Le Rocket (vodka ketel one, fruits de la passion, sirop thé vert, citron and cayenne) for my dining partner.
Soon enough, the familiar Moishes rye bread with butter, coleslaw and pickles arrived at the table – always a staple.
Among the new items on the Moishes menu is a seafood tower, a genuine favorite of ours at high-end restaurants. It was absolutely outstanding, consisting of lobster, a dozen very large oysters, crab cake salad, shrimp cocktail, branzino ceviche and some of the best pieces of Arctic char I ever remember tasting. The platter came with a number of excellent sauces and some spicy mayo. Friends of mine dined here a few days later and the seafood tower was their entire meal and they had no complaints.
While the menu has so many tempting items, when you come to Moishes you order a steak. We agreed to share the 34 ounce porterhouse, prepared medium rare. On the side was another blast from the past, the Monte Carlo potato. The steak’s perfectly seared exterior glistened with juices, promising a tender, flavorful interior. The sight of its charred edges and reddish-pink center ignited the anticipation. Before my first bite, the aroma of sizzling meat filled the air, rich with the promise of savory goodness. The blend of caramelized crust and beefy fragrance created an irresistible invitation. Cutting into the steak revealed a tender, juicy interior, its texture offering a slight resistance followed by a succulent chew. Each bite delivered a combination of tenderness and slight firmness, showcasing the quality of the cut.
Some of the other menu items I will try on future visits include salads, BBQ chicken, smoked beef short ribs, shish kebab, rack of lamb and other cuts of steak.
For dessert, we shared a mouthwatering piece of lemon meringue pie.
Moishes is located at 1001 Rue du Square-Victoria. Opening hours are Monday to Wednesday from 11:30 am to 10:30 pm. (last reservation at 10:00 pm; Thursday and Friday from 11:30 am to 11:00 pm. (previous reservation at 10:30 pm); and Saturday from 2 pm to 11:00 pm. (previous reservation at 10:30 pm) and Sunday from 2 pm to 10:30 pm (last reservation at 10:00 pm). There is valet parking for a fee ($23), provided by an external company. For reservations call (514) 405-2046 or e-mail moishesmontreal@moishes.ca. You can also log on to www.moishes.ca to reserve and view the complete menu, including the gourmet lunch specials.
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Mike Cohen, born and raised in Côte Saint-Luc, has long been active in the community as a volunteer, journalist, and consultant. He profiles restaurants in Montreal and beyond.
mikecohen.ca