For many months my friend and work colleague George has been raving about Coronet Pizzeria, an iconic spot in St. Laurent that has been in business for 63 years. “You have to taste this pizza,” he insisted.
Recently, I took George up on his offer and we went for lunch. We were greeted by owner Jimmy Tritos, whose dynamic personality shines the moment you step into the dining room. His late father John and mom Debbie established the place on Poirier Street back in November 1962. Debbie, who is closing in on becoming a centenarian, was responsible for all of the recipes including pizza dough and tomato and meat sauce.
Coronet, which stands for a crown, offers mouth-watering pizzas with a delectable touch of sweet tomato sauce, a light yet filling crust that excites the palate and will leave you craving for more. That was certainly my reaction. Their traditional pasta sauces, made from recipes handed down over generations, cannot be duplicated. All the Greek dishes on the menu are carefully prepared to order, thereby guaranteeing the utmost freshness. All of the side dishes are of the same high standard of quality.
I ordered the Coronet Special. Catered to the meat lover in you, there is no need to ask “Where’s the beef.” Starting with the all-dressed formula, they add seasoned extra lean minced sirloin and strips of smoked Canadian bacon. Each slice was a delight. The dough had that certain crisp in the right places yet it was soft and very easy to digest. Jimmy said the key here is the use of Lactania butter and milk to make the crust puffier.
Jimmy admitted that some of the products come from California. “I know these days that is not so popular,” he said. “But there are some things I just can’t change. I will not compromise on my products. I’d rather take a hit on sales.”
George chose the all-dressed pizza. We both chose the small 10-inch sized versions and this was more than sufficient. I had two slices left that I brought home and heated up in the air fryer the following day.
You can also order spaghetti, lasagna, rigatoni, ravioli, gnocchi, chicken wings, club sandwiches and fries.
The dining room has a retro look, with some stools at the bar and tables that can seat about 30 diners. “We have three generations of clients,” said Jimmy. “One longtime customer moved to Hong Kong. I know when he is here to visit because when the family makes its order the size of the pizza goes up.”
Jimmy said that clients come from as far away as the South Shore and the Laurentians. For years, he had his brother Angelo by his side. Sadly, Angelo passed away suddenly from a heart attack. In his memory, a pizza was introduced, another combination of an all-dressed with its all-time unique meat sauce in lieu of tomato sauce and a topping of your choice.
Running the operation by himself, Jimmy reacted by closing the place for three days each week, staying open Wednesday to Saturday from 11 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. He also shuts down from mid-July to mid-September “because I can. I work hard, and I just need a break. Many clients come and buy some pizzas before we shut down, and they freeze the slices so they can continue to have their fix.”
In 1997, CJAD and the late Mark Rennie voted Coronet the best pizza in Montreal. In 2006, former CTV Montreal reporter Brian Britt held a pizza competition, and Coronet came in second.
Coronet Pizzeria is located at 1671 Rue Poirier in St. Laurent. You can call 514-744-5847. There is delivery in the immediate area for a minimum of a $12 order. You can log on to https://coronetpizzeria.com/ital.html