By Mike Cohen and Tony Medeiros
When Luigi Spera and Bryan Pereira invited us to a tasting at their new Roman Pie Pizza on Rue Saint-Denis in the Plateau-Mont-Royal area, we were intrigued by this concept, which we had no prior knowledge of.
Roman-style pizza — especially pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice) and pizza alla pala (pizza on the peel) — is so good because of a few very specific reasons that set it apart from other types of pizza, especially its more famous cousin, Neapolitan pizza. There are many reasons for this staring with the dough, a long fermentation (sometimes up to 72 hours giving the dough depth of flavor and lightness, breaking down the gluten and making it easier to digest) and high hydration (up to an 80 to 90 percent –water-to-flour ratio, makes the crust airy and soft on the inside but crispy on the outside). The result is a crust that’s light, flavorful, and crisp yet tender — not chewy or overly dense.
To understand the magic, you need to understand the roots. Roman pizza was born in Rome after World War II. Unlike the familiar round Neapolitan style, Roman pizza is baked in long rectangular pans, cut into generous slices, and served by weight. Its thick yet crispy base is the result of a dough with extraordinarily high water absorption and a lengthy fermentation process, which requires flour with exceptional strength (over 300 W units) to endure both time and hydration.
The lineage of Roman pizza stretches further back. Ancient Romans were already baking flatbreads adorned with oils, herbs, and toppings—culinary ancestors of what we now call pizza. Today, Luigi and Bryan carry that legacy forward, breathing new life into a tradition that has endured for centuries. Their Roman pizza doesn’t just honor history—it elevates it, transforming every slice into an ambrosial experience.
Their Roman-style pizza is not thrown together on a whim; it’s carefully layered with history, tradition, and bold creativity. One bite reveals a crust that’s unlike any other—light yet structured, crisp at the base yet airy enough to melt on your tongue. Each topping is arranged like notes in a song, creating flavors in perfect harmony, echoing recipes and techniques that have been refined over generations. This is the kind of pizza that doesn’t just satisfy hunger—it seduces, slice after slice, until you realize that ordinary pizza will never measure up again.
The crust is crunchy, but not dry. Unlike Neapolitan pizza, which is soft and floppy, Roman-style pizza has a thin, crunchy bottom. Pizza al taglio is often baked in a rectangular tray, resulting in a crispy base, almost like focaccia but more delicate. Roman pizza often uses simple, high-quality toppings like buffalo mozzarella, mortadella, artichokes, or fresh tomatoes. These toppings are typically spread evenly and not overloaded, allowing the dough and flavors to shine without becoming soggy. It is also served by the slice and is perfectly baked. In large trays and cut with scissors to your desired portion. The second bake or reheat crisps it up perfectly without drying it out — a game-changer for texture. Finally, it’s portable, social, fresh and designed to be eaten on the go or shared.
Spera works in home renovations, while Pereira owns real estate, including the storefront where Roman Pie pizza is housed. “I have been thinking about this for years,” Pereira said. “Luigi and I went to Toronto last summer to meet someone in this business. We ate Roman Pie pizza three times a day. When we returned, we agreed to open our own place. There is nothing like this in Montreal.”
What makes Luigi Spera and Bryan Pereira such an irresistible duo is their oven-hot passion for the restaurant business. They don’t simply serve pizza—they compose edible works of art, each one a culinary sonnet. Every ingredient is handpicked with the precision of a master pizzaiolo and the soul of a storyteller, ensuring that what arrives at your table isn’t just food, but a crafted experience.
Roman Pie Pizza had a dry run last November. “It was kind of like focus groups,” said Spera. “People came inside, tried our pizza and gave us valuable feedback.”
The restaurant itself is only 7,000 square feet with some stools at the bar, a couple of tables and a couch. There is a lot of grab-and-go traffic. At the present time, there are 15 different variations of pizza. When you arrive, the trays of pizza are prominently displayed. Make your pick, they will heat everything up and then it is time to enjoy. They are so light, you could eat up to 10 pieces before getting full. Chefs Lili and Henry had us sample a few and indeed, we were impressed.
Our favorites included The Margherita (cherry tomatoes, stracciatella and basil), the Picante (sausage, mozzarella, spicy peppers and parsley), the Coppa (mozzarella, coppa, spicy honey and red pepper flakes), the Capri (fior di latte, cherry tomatoes, basil and garlic), the Athena (mozzarella, zucchini, tzatziki, feta, kalamata olives and dill) and the Mortazza (mozzarella, mortadella, stracciattella, honey and pistachios).
Once you experience pizza the Roman way, there’s no turning back. Traditional pizza begins to feel like a distant echo, fading into the background when compared to the bold, vibrant symphony of flavors that only Roman pizza can deliver.
On weekends, some dessert pies are made available.
While the owners’ goal is to first expand to Florida, since opening officially here in May, they have had inquiries and in all likelihood, Roman Pie Pizza could end up surfacing in shopping centre food courts.
During our visit, it was impossible not to notice the loyalty and excitement of returning patrons. Customers weren’t just returning—they were rushing back with big orders, eager to share this discovery with friends and family. It was as if the pizza itself carried a magnetic pull, drawing people in again and again.
“Business is terrific,” said Spera. “Some night we run out. Tourists know about us, know. Some come directly here from the airport with their suitcases.
What Luigi Spera and Bryan Pereira have created is not just a restaurant, and not just a meal—it’s a culinary destination. It’s an experience that lingers in your memory long after the last bite, calling you back for more.
Roman Pie Pizza is located at 4295 Saint Denis St. and is open every day but Monday. Log on to www.romanpiepizza.com or call 514-849-6453.