Mike Cohen, born and raised in Côte Saint-Luc, has long been active in the community as a volunteer, journalist, and consultant. He profiles restaurants in Montreal and beyond.
mikecohen.ca and @mikecohencsl
The Centropolis complex in Laval offers an impressive array of dining options; yet, for years, I had been hearing about one restaurant in particular: Sterling’s Steakhouse & Bar. It was only after one of my trusted culinary advisors, David, encouraged me to call the founder, Vasili “Billy” Panousopoulos, that I finally planned my first visit.
Billy established Sterlings at this location 21 years ago, and it has enjoyed a successful run ever since. Now 70 years young, he is beginning to take a step back, gradually passing the reins to his son, Michael. Still, when my friend Jesse and I stopped in for dinner on a recent Monday evening, Billy was very much at the helm. He supervised the kitchen, greeted guests at their tables, and chatted comfortably with regulars at the bar. Seated discreetly in a corner that night was celebrity chef Jonathan Garnier.
The elegant dining room and bar can accommodate more than 300 guests, offering casual dining in a refined and relaxing atmosphere.
Sterlings has built an outstanding reputation for steak, fish, and seafood. The restaurant features the finest cuts of meat and fresh fish, selected daily and grilled over real charcoal to enhance their natural flavors. Its private wine cellar is a true delight for wine lovers.
Billy and Michael proudly note that Sterlings serves only USDA Prime beef, aged for 30 to 35 days and hand-cut daily. Every steak is grilled to perfection on an open wood-charcoal pit, sealing in the juices to ensure exceptional taste and tenderness.
After settling in with drinks—an Amaretto sour for Jesse and a glass of prosecco for me—our server, Khoa, guided us through the menu. We began with appetizers. I chose the crab cakes, which were both comforting and refined: crisp and golden on the outside, giving way to a tender, flaky interior filled with sweet, fresh crab. Finished with a squeeze of lemon, they were deeply satisfying. Jesse opted for the Norwegian smoked salmon. Each silky slice melted on his tongue, rich and buttery yet remarkably clean in flavor. The smoking was gentle and precise, adding a subtle woodsy warmth without overpowering the fish’s natural sweetness.
For the main course, I had my sights set on the house specialty—rib roast beef au jus—but it had already sold out. Fortunately, the alternative was more than worthy. I ordered the 16-ounce junior-cut rib steak, grilled to a perfect medium rare and served with a side of crispy fries. Jesse chose the 12-ounce filet mignon, finished with pepper sauce and flambéed with cognac.
I was later invited back to try the famed roast beef, and it was well worth the return visit—simply outstanding. On that occasion, I had the opportunity to meet Michael, who was busy preparing dishes while Billy stood nearby, ensuring that orders reached the tables promptly. Michael shared that he has been part of the restaurant since his early teenage years.
In addition to its renowned steaks, Sterlings offers an appealing selection of fresh fish, shrimp, lobster tail, scampi, and even seafood linguini.
The restaurant also features excellent value menus: a late-night dinner option at $45 per person starting at 9 p.m. daily, and a Sunday roast beef special for $40. During hockey games, the popular 5 à 7 promotions run until 9 p.m., with burger sliders priced at just $9. Lunchtime specials are equally attractive, drawing a lively business crowd.
Dessert choices were easy. I selected the outstanding key lime pie, while Jesse went for the tiramisu—both perfect endings to a memorable meal.
Sterlings Steakhouse & Bar is located at 165 Promenade du Centropolis in Laval. For more information, visit www.sterlingsrestaurant.com or call 450-682-4800. The restaurant is open seven days a week for lunch and dinner, with ample free parking available in nearby lots.
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