Lunch at Commodore Restaurant and Café is a “Honeyrose” of an experience

Glenn J. Nashen: A new Vietnamese experience at Tran Cantine

When it comes to a Vietnamese dining-out experience in Montreal look no further than the Tran Family. Following up on our recent sensational night out at the newly launched Hang Bar in Old Montreal, Judy and I, along with our friends Dana and Jeff accepted an invitation to Marilyn Tran’s diner in St. Henri, aptly named Tran Cantine.

Review of Restaurant Hang: Glenn J. Nashen: Montreal’s Top-Notch Vietnamese Cuisine

What secret treasures await when a new restaurant opens? One can only imagine, until being lucky enough to be exposed to the sights, smells and tastes of Restaurant Hang. Such was the experience on a recent Thursday night when my wife and I made reservations at what has been billed as the “first haute cuisine Vietnamese restaurant” in Montreal. Sure, our city has plenty of upscale trendy places, but nothing quite like this new concept in Asian fine dining. It tantalized all of our senses, from the moment we walked through the doors and took in the sumptuous decor. Hang arrives as the newest restaurant in the renowned hospitality group JEGantic’s portfolio. Vietnamese cuisine will be elevated from its usual humble “mom and pop” eateries to a refined haute cuisine experience that celebrates the unique flavours of the Southeast Asian country. Montrealers will be fittingly welcomed to come “hang” and indulge in a culinary journey that reflects Vietnam’s rich heritage with an innovative spin on favourite dishes. We were greeted by Joyce Phanekham, the effervescent general manager, who was helpful and attentive to her guests throughout our two-and-a-half-hour dining experience. She promptly introduced us to one of the most personable restauranteurs we have yet to meet, Marylyn Tran. Marylyn teamed up with her husband Alain and the folks from JEGantic to create an experiential and uniquely Asian venue for traditional, authentic Vietnamese cuisine in a class of its own. And who better to know how to achieve this pinnacle other than the Tran family who already own several restaurants under the Tran Cantine banner? After all, Marylyn was raised in her parent’s kitchen where she acquired her unique taste, over at their St. Denis Street Vietnamese restaurant, Pho Tay Ho. The family started this business back in 1986 and it is still going strong. Indeed, the name Hang is a nod of appreciation to Marylyn’s mom. Marylyn grew up cherishing the culinary and cultural intricacies that captivated their family, friends and clientele and eventually branched out, opening her own chain of traditional Vietnamese restos. Located between Griffintown and Old Montreal, Hang will surely attract the young in-crowd, as well as tourists seeking a memorable night out on the town. Marylyn introduced us to her right-hand man, Marco, a knowledgeable and experienced server and cook who took care of us for our date-night. He described in great detail each dish served, with ease and familiarity as though he himself was the chef. We started out with, what else, Pho Wagyu Consommé, a classic noodle soup that Hang has enhanced with its elaborate preparation: 14 hours of cooking over at Tran Cantine. It had many delicate ingredients including Wagyu beef and fresh rice noodles. The aroma of truffle alone made this a mouth-watering winning choice. Judy’s Franco-Viet Salmon Tartare tasted “like the ocean.” This dish of salmon was served with old-fashioned mustard, crispy rice, shallots, green onions and long red peppers. My Five-Spiced Buttered Scalloped – Ngo Vi Houng consisted of three pan-fried scallops each nestled in its own Asian soup spoon and bathed in secret fish sauce. They were garnished with crushed nuts and a hint of lemon making them simply perfect. Judy enjoyed her main course of Vegan Red Curry, a locally sourced seasonal vegetable medley stewed in red curry paste, coconut milk, palm sugar and julienned taro. I literally licked my fingers while eating a homemade order of Banh Mi Foie Gras. Imagine pan-seared foie gras, caramelized onions, pickled carrots and daikon, cucumber, coriander, and homemade mayo with Hang special sauce on a soft baguette, an ode to Alain’s native city of Paris. It was served on a large banana leaf, and the garnish on all their plates was a work of art. So too was the elegantly designed cutlery. Joyce describes Hang as a chill environment to linger, drink, talk and share delicious dishes among friends. All the staff were extremely personable, friendly and helpful. The decor features exotic nature elements that mimic the dense greenery of Da Nang’s jungle. The soaring ceilings, leafy chandeliers and striking wood columns add an impressive grandeur to the place. There was a great vibe throughout our evening with lots of smiling, happy young patrons. Indeed, owing to the immersive bar environment diners must be 18 or older at Hang. Finally, our dessert was served. Gateau au Pandan was quite distinct and attractive but we both decided that the Creamy Coconut Flan with Banana was the clear winner. Hang has a flair for mixology. From our opening round of shots to our cocktails, and mocktails and ending with a Vietnamese Coffee Martini, they are pros at presentation, taste and hospitality. Marylyn and her crew may be new to the high-end market but the high-end market is also new to Vietnamese cuisine. They are truly passionate about their mission and are on a winning track. Our experience was delightful and our evening was enriched by their warm and hospitable demeanour. We felt like we were hanging out (no pun intended) with friends and family around an exquisitely prepared table of outstanding cultural cuisine. Who could ask for more? Hang is poised to become Montreal’s new must-visit dining destination. It is located at 686 Notre Dame Ouest in Old Montreal, Tuesdays to Saturdays from 5:00 p.m. Visit hangbar.ca or call 514 910-2227.

Glenn J. Nashen’s Five Alarm Culinary Adventure at Sushi Taxi

Not even a major shutdown of Notre Dame Street in Little Burgundy could keep us away from a gastronomic luxury take-out of sushi and Asian fusion at Sushi Taxi. No exaggeration! The fire department literally closed down the street for an emergency. However, the conscientious staff called to say, ‘stand by’. As soon as the ‘all clear’ sounded we headed into the bistro-chique locale.

Glenn J. Nashen discovers more than a good dinner at Casa Grecque in Chomedey

I was looking for a tasty, family-friendly take-out dinner and Casa Grecque in Chomedey was my next pick. My family and I love plentiful Greek salads and tangy appetizers, particularly during long, cold Quebec winters when delicious, plump red tomatoes are not in abundance. What I found at this spacious, well-decorated restaurant in Chomedey at the corner of St. Martin Blvd. and Daniel-Johnson Blvd. was far more than I could have imagined.

Nashen does Take-Out: Bistro Amerigo still heating up on Monkland

Bistro Amerigo may be a relatively small eatery, but during the pandemic lockdown the well-known West-End restaurant is doing large scale take-out and delivery. I last reported on Amerigo some two-and-a-half years ago and have returned numerous times with friends and family since then. The local “Garde Manger Italien” (or kitchen pantry) has maintained its flair for fine authentic dishes at reasonable prices, not far from home.

Glenn J. Nashen grabs a kosher slice at PizzaPita Prime

PizzaPita has been going strong in the Snowdon area for more than 30 years. With their recent move across Decarie Boulevard to the former Pizza Hut location in front of Decarie Square, at the corner of Decarie and Vezina, they have a prime spot to garner the attention of thousands of commuters, shoppers and locals each and every day. Hence they’ve rebranded PizzaPita to PizzaPita Prime.

Mike Cohen

Mike Cohen, born and raised in Côte Saint-Luc, has long been active in the community as a volunteer, journalist, and consultant. He profiles restaurants in Montreal and beyond.

mikecohen.ca and @mikecohencsl

Between meetings, errands, and packed calendars, a great lunch can feel like a small luxury. What better way to step away from the office or catch up with friends than over a beautifully crafted table d’hôte in a space that feels like a true escape? Tucked inside the Honeyrose Hotel, Commodore offers exactly that: a warm, elegant setting where mid-day dining feels unhurried and elevated.

In the summer of 2023, Tribute Portfolio. part of Marriott Bonvoy’s extraordinary portfolio of 31 hotel brands, opened its first property here by establishing the Honeyrose Hotel Montreal in the Quartier des Spectacles right near Place des Arts.

The hotel evokes an earlier era. Architex Group designed the building with large bay windows to bring in natural light. The architecture and interior design of the rooms, suites and corridors on each floor, as well as the banquet and meeting rooms, were entrusted to Provencher Roy. The design of the hotel lobby, restaurant and café was created by Atelier Zébulon Perron.

I recently enjoyed a sensational lunch at French bistro-style Commodore Restaurant and Café (www.commodoremontreal.com), with General Manager Antoine Naoum. We met a number of years ago at another property he oversaw and reconnected at The Honeyrose last summer when I was invited for a special event.

This was indeed a treat, not only to enjoy the fabulous cuisine, but to get to know Antoine and his marvelous backstory. The team at Rima Hospitality indeed made a good decision when they brought him on board two years ago.

Lunch began with a roast over some glasses of prosecco and then the soft and warm bread arrived at the table, with a dandy spread of “Honeyrose” butter.

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While Antoine enjoyed a light salad, I was intrigued immediately by the salmon chowder. I’ve always enjoyed clam chowder, but this marked the first time I had this option and the piping hot bowl was just what I needed on this particular cold day.

When executive chef Alexandre Joubard came to greet me at our table, Antoine suggested that he make me a good steak. He told me later that he follows me on Instagram and noticed how this is often my food of choice and he wanted me to experience it from his kitchen. The 10-ounce grilled sirloin came perfectly prepared, medium rare as I asked and served with crispy fries, seasonal vegetables and homemade béarnaise sauce.

Executive Chef Alexandre Joubard and server Anabel

Our server, Anabel, recommended the crème brûlée for dessert. This rich and creamy chilled custard, topped with a layer of hardened caramelized brown sugar that cracks when you tap it with a spoon, was the perfect conclusion to a treat of a lunch. Of course, I also ordered my traditional decaf Americano.

Commodore is open for breakfast, lunch and supper. It can accommodate 55 people in the dining room and 36 on a seasonal patio. Inspired by French cuisine, blending culinary traditions with contemporary touches in a chic 1920s setting, the menu is refined and the atmosphere particularly elegant.

I definitely would categorize this place as a “destination” restaurant. If you are headed to a show at the Place des Arts, consider leaving early to enjoy a bite there.

Chef Joubard, by the way, is passionate about the art of cooking. He has explored various fields, from haute gastronomy to catering, as well as Italian and French cuisine. His talents have been shaped by key experiences, notably at Les Halles Paul Bocuse, Lyon’s gastronomic powerhouse, and at Michelin three-star chef George Blanc’s prestigious Le Centre by George restaurant. These varied experiences have shaped his expertise, enabling him to bring a unique quality and touch to every dish he prepares. Passionate about authentic flavors and mastering a wide range of culinary techniques, he embodies an artisanal spirit, always striving for excellence and refinement in his work.

The Commodore Restaurant & Café is located at the Honeyrose Hotel at 355 De Maisonneuve Blvd. West. Log on to www.commodoremontreal.com. You can call 514-656-8632.

Lunch at Commodore Restaurant and Café is a “Honeyrose” of an experience

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