Akira Back Lands in Ottawa at the Fairmont Château Laurier: a new standard for what upscale dining can look like.

Glenn J. Nashen: A new Vietnamese experience at Tran Cantine

When it comes to a Vietnamese dining-out experience in Montreal look no further than the Tran Family. Following up on our recent sensational night out at the newly launched Hang Bar in Old Montreal, Judy and I, along with our friends Dana and Jeff accepted an invitation to Marilyn Tran’s diner in St. Henri, aptly named Tran Cantine.

Review of Restaurant Hang: Glenn J. Nashen: Montreal’s Top-Notch Vietnamese Cuisine

What secret treasures await when a new restaurant opens? One can only imagine, until being lucky enough to be exposed to the sights, smells and tastes of Restaurant Hang. Such was the experience on a recent Thursday night when my wife and I made reservations at what has been billed as the “first haute cuisine Vietnamese restaurant” in Montreal. Sure, our city has plenty of upscale trendy places, but nothing quite like this new concept in Asian fine dining. It tantalized all of our senses, from the moment we walked through the doors and took in the sumptuous decor. Hang arrives as the newest restaurant in the renowned hospitality group JEGantic’s portfolio. Vietnamese cuisine will be elevated from its usual humble “mom and pop” eateries to a refined haute cuisine experience that celebrates the unique flavours of the Southeast Asian country. Montrealers will be fittingly welcomed to come “hang” and indulge in a culinary journey that reflects Vietnam’s rich heritage with an innovative spin on favourite dishes. We were greeted by Joyce Phanekham, the effervescent general manager, who was helpful and attentive to her guests throughout our two-and-a-half-hour dining experience. She promptly introduced us to one of the most personable restauranteurs we have yet to meet, Marylyn Tran. Marylyn teamed up with her husband Alain and the folks from JEGantic to create an experiential and uniquely Asian venue for traditional, authentic Vietnamese cuisine in a class of its own. And who better to know how to achieve this pinnacle other than the Tran family who already own several restaurants under the Tran Cantine banner? After all, Marylyn was raised in her parent’s kitchen where she acquired her unique taste, over at their St. Denis Street Vietnamese restaurant, Pho Tay Ho. The family started this business back in 1986 and it is still going strong. Indeed, the name Hang is a nod of appreciation to Marylyn’s mom. Marylyn grew up cherishing the culinary and cultural intricacies that captivated their family, friends and clientele and eventually branched out, opening her own chain of traditional Vietnamese restos. Located between Griffintown and Old Montreal, Hang will surely attract the young in-crowd, as well as tourists seeking a memorable night out on the town. Marylyn introduced us to her right-hand man, Marco, a knowledgeable and experienced server and cook who took care of us for our date-night. He described in great detail each dish served, with ease and familiarity as though he himself was the chef. We started out with, what else, Pho Wagyu Consommé, a classic noodle soup that Hang has enhanced with its elaborate preparation: 14 hours of cooking over at Tran Cantine. It had many delicate ingredients including Wagyu beef and fresh rice noodles. The aroma of truffle alone made this a mouth-watering winning choice. Judy’s Franco-Viet Salmon Tartare tasted “like the ocean.” This dish of salmon was served with old-fashioned mustard, crispy rice, shallots, green onions and long red peppers. My Five-Spiced Buttered Scalloped – Ngo Vi Houng consisted of three pan-fried scallops each nestled in its own Asian soup spoon and bathed in secret fish sauce. They were garnished with crushed nuts and a hint of lemon making them simply perfect. Judy enjoyed her main course of Vegan Red Curry, a locally sourced seasonal vegetable medley stewed in red curry paste, coconut milk, palm sugar and julienned taro. I literally licked my fingers while eating a homemade order of Banh Mi Foie Gras. Imagine pan-seared foie gras, caramelized onions, pickled carrots and daikon, cucumber, coriander, and homemade mayo with Hang special sauce on a soft baguette, an ode to Alain’s native city of Paris. It was served on a large banana leaf, and the garnish on all their plates was a work of art. So too was the elegantly designed cutlery. Joyce describes Hang as a chill environment to linger, drink, talk and share delicious dishes among friends. All the staff were extremely personable, friendly and helpful. The decor features exotic nature elements that mimic the dense greenery of Da Nang’s jungle. The soaring ceilings, leafy chandeliers and striking wood columns add an impressive grandeur to the place. There was a great vibe throughout our evening with lots of smiling, happy young patrons. Indeed, owing to the immersive bar environment diners must be 18 or older at Hang. Finally, our dessert was served. Gateau au Pandan was quite distinct and attractive but we both decided that the Creamy Coconut Flan with Banana was the clear winner. Hang has a flair for mixology. From our opening round of shots to our cocktails, and mocktails and ending with a Vietnamese Coffee Martini, they are pros at presentation, taste and hospitality. Marylyn and her crew may be new to the high-end market but the high-end market is also new to Vietnamese cuisine. They are truly passionate about their mission and are on a winning track. Our experience was delightful and our evening was enriched by their warm and hospitable demeanour. We felt like we were hanging out (no pun intended) with friends and family around an exquisitely prepared table of outstanding cultural cuisine. Who could ask for more? Hang is poised to become Montreal’s new must-visit dining destination. It is located at 686 Notre Dame Ouest in Old Montreal, Tuesdays to Saturdays from 5:00 p.m. Visit hangbar.ca or call 514 910-2227.

Glenn J. Nashen’s Five Alarm Culinary Adventure at Sushi Taxi

Not even a major shutdown of Notre Dame Street in Little Burgundy could keep us away from a gastronomic luxury take-out of sushi and Asian fusion at Sushi Taxi. No exaggeration! The fire department literally closed down the street for an emergency. However, the conscientious staff called to say, ‘stand by’. As soon as the ‘all clear’ sounded we headed into the bistro-chique locale.

Glenn J. Nashen discovers more than a good dinner at Casa Grecque in Chomedey

I was looking for a tasty, family-friendly take-out dinner and Casa Grecque in Chomedey was my next pick. My family and I love plentiful Greek salads and tangy appetizers, particularly during long, cold Quebec winters when delicious, plump red tomatoes are not in abundance. What I found at this spacious, well-decorated restaurant in Chomedey at the corner of St. Martin Blvd. and Daniel-Johnson Blvd. was far more than I could have imagined.

Nashen does Take-Out: Bistro Amerigo still heating up on Monkland

Bistro Amerigo may be a relatively small eatery, but during the pandemic lockdown the well-known West-End restaurant is doing large scale take-out and delivery. I last reported on Amerigo some two-and-a-half years ago and have returned numerous times with friends and family since then. The local “Garde Manger Italien” (or kitchen pantry) has maintained its flair for fine authentic dishes at reasonable prices, not far from home.

Glenn J. Nashen grabs a kosher slice at PizzaPita Prime

PizzaPita has been going strong in the Snowdon area for more than 30 years. With their recent move across Decarie Boulevard to the former Pizza Hut location in front of Decarie Square, at the corner of Decarie and Vezina, they have a prime spot to garner the attention of thousands of commuters, shoppers and locals each and every day. Hence they’ve rebranded PizzaPita to PizzaPita Prime.

By Jack Silverstone

Akira Back’s soft opening at the Fairmont Château Laurier (1 Rideau) doesn’t ease its way into Ottawa’s dining scene — it arrives with confidence. This is a restaurant that knows exactly what it wants to be: polished, global, and just indulgent enough to keep people talking.

My son, I had the pleasure of enjoying an exclusive first look at the restaurant’s design, vision, and menu. The tuna pizza is crisp, rich, and instantly memorable — a balance of texture and umami that feels both refined and crowd-pleasing. The wagyu tartare follows with a softer, more luxurious profile, while the mushroom version leans deep into earthy, savory notes. Then came one of the night’s standout moments: the salmon tataki. Lightly seared and thinly sliced, it’s clean, bright, and perfectly balanced. The citrus-forward dressing cuts through the richness of the fish without overpowering it. It’s not flashy — and that’s exactly why it works.

The menu moves deliberately. Fresh, acidic dishes transition into warmer, more comforting plates. The miso eggplant is soft and deeply savory, while the rock shrimp brings crunch and spice — a clear nod to more indulgent, crowd-friendly flavors.

The main course is where the kitchen flexes. The wagyu picanha is rich, tender, and confidently cooked. But the real technical standout is the seared seabass. Served in a soy beurre blanc, it’s precise, balanced, and quietly impressive — the kind of dish that rewards attention.

Not everything aims for restraint. The “Perfect Storm ”sushi roll is exactly what it sounds like — bold, layered, and unapologetically indulgent. It delivers, but it leans more toward spectacle than finesse.

Dessert finishes strong. The AB Cigar is visually striking but slightly one-dimensional. The apple harumaki, on the other hand, lands perfectly — crisp, warm, and paired with cool vanilla gelato for a classic, satisfying contrast.

What Akira Back does best is structure. The meal flows with intention — rich to fresh, light to heavy, and back again. Even at a soft opening, the execution feels controlled and deliberate.

This isn’t minimalist dining. It’s expressive, modern, and occasionally a bit over the top. But that’s part of the appeal. Akira Back isn’t trying to be quiet — it’s trying to be memorable.

And in that respect, it succeeds. Ottawa doesn’t just get a new restaurant — it gets a new standard for what upscale dining can look like.

Akira Back Ottawa will reflect the type of thoughtfully crafted experience we strive to bring to the property,” said Geneviève Dumas, General Manager of Fairmont Château Laurier. “The combination of Chef Back’s visionary approach, the Fairmont’s historic elegance, and the restaurant’s striking contemporary design will deliver an unforgettable experience for guests and locals alike.”

Born in Seoul and raised in Aspen, Colorado, Chef Back’s unconventional journey from professional snowboarder to Michelin-starred chef has shaped a culinary style rooted in creativity, energy and precision. His 28 restaurants worldwide, which span Paris, Hong Kong, Dubai, London, San Francisco, Toronto, Seoul and more, are recognized for their artistic presentations, dynamic social ambiance and innovative flavours.

“I’m excited to bring my culinary vision to Ottawa. It is thrilling for me in a city so rich in culture and history, while also being the nation’s capital,” said Chef Akira Back. “My goal is to create a dining experience that feels both refined and unexpected, a place where guests will discover something exciting every time they visit.”

For more information, visit www.akirabackottawa.com

Akira Back Lands in Ottawa at the Fairmont Château Laurier: a new standard for what upscale dining can look like.

Be First to Comment

Leave a Reply Cancel reply