Trendy Le Roseline is now open for brunch with skillfully reinvented classics

Glenn J. Nashen: A new Vietnamese experience at Tran Cantine

When it comes to a Vietnamese dining-out experience in Montreal look no further than the Tran Family. Following up on our recent sensational night out at the newly launched Hang Bar in Old Montreal, Judy and I, along with our friends Dana and Jeff accepted an invitation to Marilyn Tran’s diner in St. Henri, aptly named Tran Cantine.

Review of Restaurant Hang: Glenn J. Nashen: Montreal’s Top-Notch Vietnamese Cuisine

What secret treasures await when a new restaurant opens? One can only imagine, until being lucky enough to be exposed to the sights, smells and tastes of Restaurant Hang. Such was the experience on a recent Thursday night when my wife and I made reservations at what has been billed as the “first haute cuisine Vietnamese restaurant” in Montreal. Sure, our city has plenty of upscale trendy places, but nothing quite like this new concept in Asian fine dining. It tantalized all of our senses, from the moment we walked through the doors and took in the sumptuous decor. Hang arrives as the newest restaurant in the renowned hospitality group JEGantic’s portfolio. Vietnamese cuisine will be elevated from its usual humble “mom and pop” eateries to a refined haute cuisine experience that celebrates the unique flavours of the Southeast Asian country. Montrealers will be fittingly welcomed to come “hang” and indulge in a culinary journey that reflects Vietnam’s rich heritage with an innovative spin on favourite dishes. We were greeted by Joyce Phanekham, the effervescent general manager, who was helpful and attentive to her guests throughout our two-and-a-half-hour dining experience. She promptly introduced us to one of the most personable restauranteurs we have yet to meet, Marylyn Tran. Marylyn teamed up with her husband Alain and the folks from JEGantic to create an experiential and uniquely Asian venue for traditional, authentic Vietnamese cuisine in a class of its own. And who better to know how to achieve this pinnacle other than the Tran family who already own several restaurants under the Tran Cantine banner? After all, Marylyn was raised in her parent’s kitchen where she acquired her unique taste, over at their St. Denis Street Vietnamese restaurant, Pho Tay Ho. The family started this business back in 1986 and it is still going strong. Indeed, the name Hang is a nod of appreciation to Marylyn’s mom. Marylyn grew up cherishing the culinary and cultural intricacies that captivated their family, friends and clientele and eventually branched out, opening her own chain of traditional Vietnamese restos. Located between Griffintown and Old Montreal, Hang will surely attract the young in-crowd, as well as tourists seeking a memorable night out on the town. Marylyn introduced us to her right-hand man, Marco, a knowledgeable and experienced server and cook who took care of us for our date-night. He described in great detail each dish served, with ease and familiarity as though he himself was the chef. We started out with, what else, Pho Wagyu Consommé, a classic noodle soup that Hang has enhanced with its elaborate preparation: 14 hours of cooking over at Tran Cantine. It had many delicate ingredients including Wagyu beef and fresh rice noodles. The aroma of truffle alone made this a mouth-watering winning choice. Judy’s Franco-Viet Salmon Tartare tasted “like the ocean.” This dish of salmon was served with old-fashioned mustard, crispy rice, shallots, green onions and long red peppers. My Five-Spiced Buttered Scalloped – Ngo Vi Houng consisted of three pan-fried scallops each nestled in its own Asian soup spoon and bathed in secret fish sauce. They were garnished with crushed nuts and a hint of lemon making them simply perfect. Judy enjoyed her main course of Vegan Red Curry, a locally sourced seasonal vegetable medley stewed in red curry paste, coconut milk, palm sugar and julienned taro. I literally licked my fingers while eating a homemade order of Banh Mi Foie Gras. Imagine pan-seared foie gras, caramelized onions, pickled carrots and daikon, cucumber, coriander, and homemade mayo with Hang special sauce on a soft baguette, an ode to Alain’s native city of Paris. It was served on a large banana leaf, and the garnish on all their plates was a work of art. So too was the elegantly designed cutlery. Joyce describes Hang as a chill environment to linger, drink, talk and share delicious dishes among friends. All the staff were extremely personable, friendly and helpful. The decor features exotic nature elements that mimic the dense greenery of Da Nang’s jungle. The soaring ceilings, leafy chandeliers and striking wood columns add an impressive grandeur to the place. There was a great vibe throughout our evening with lots of smiling, happy young patrons. Indeed, owing to the immersive bar environment diners must be 18 or older at Hang. Finally, our dessert was served. Gateau au Pandan was quite distinct and attractive but we both decided that the Creamy Coconut Flan with Banana was the clear winner. Hang has a flair for mixology. From our opening round of shots to our cocktails, and mocktails and ending with a Vietnamese Coffee Martini, they are pros at presentation, taste and hospitality. Marylyn and her crew may be new to the high-end market but the high-end market is also new to Vietnamese cuisine. They are truly passionate about their mission and are on a winning track. Our experience was delightful and our evening was enriched by their warm and hospitable demeanour. We felt like we were hanging out (no pun intended) with friends and family around an exquisitely prepared table of outstanding cultural cuisine. Who could ask for more? Hang is poised to become Montreal’s new must-visit dining destination. It is located at 686 Notre Dame Ouest in Old Montreal, Tuesdays to Saturdays from 5:00 p.m. Visit hangbar.ca or call 514 910-2227.

Glenn J. Nashen’s Five Alarm Culinary Adventure at Sushi Taxi

Not even a major shutdown of Notre Dame Street in Little Burgundy could keep us away from a gastronomic luxury take-out of sushi and Asian fusion at Sushi Taxi. No exaggeration! The fire department literally closed down the street for an emergency. However, the conscientious staff called to say, ‘stand by’. As soon as the ‘all clear’ sounded we headed into the bistro-chique locale.

Glenn J. Nashen discovers more than a good dinner at Casa Grecque in Chomedey

I was looking for a tasty, family-friendly take-out dinner and Casa Grecque in Chomedey was my next pick. My family and I love plentiful Greek salads and tangy appetizers, particularly during long, cold Quebec winters when delicious, plump red tomatoes are not in abundance. What I found at this spacious, well-decorated restaurant in Chomedey at the corner of St. Martin Blvd. and Daniel-Johnson Blvd. was far more than I could have imagined.

Nashen does Take-Out: Bistro Amerigo still heating up on Monkland

Bistro Amerigo may be a relatively small eatery, but during the pandemic lockdown the well-known West-End restaurant is doing large scale take-out and delivery. I last reported on Amerigo some two-and-a-half years ago and have returned numerous times with friends and family since then. The local “Garde Manger Italien” (or kitchen pantry) has maintained its flair for fine authentic dishes at reasonable prices, not far from home.

Glenn J. Nashen grabs a kosher slice at PizzaPita Prime

PizzaPita has been going strong in the Snowdon area for more than 30 years. With their recent move across Decarie Boulevard to the former Pizza Hut location in front of Decarie Square, at the corner of Decarie and Vezina, they have a prime spot to garner the attention of thousands of commuters, shoppers and locals each and every day. Hence they’ve rebranded PizzaPita to PizzaPita Prime.

Jean-Marc Renaud is a noted Montreal art director and production designer, with a number of films, television shows, and commercials to his credit.

In December 2019, he ventured into the restaurant business, opening Le Roseline on St. Laurent Blvd. between St. Joseph and Laurier in the Mile End. Business was booming from the start, then the COVID-19 pandemic happened and the restaurant industry ground to a halt. Renaud waited for the dust to clear and when indoor dining resumed at full tilt, he was rolling again. The name Roseline was chosen in honor of the owner’s mother and sister, whose names are Rose-Marie and Line, respectively.

While I heard wonderful things about Le Roseline, my first visit on a recent Sunday morning was to experience their new brunch menu. The interior is cozy, with a 1930s kind of vibe. It is not surprising that Renaud frequently makes it available for filming of different productions.

“I come from a family of restaurateurs who have always had businesses in the neighborhood, and I wanted to recreate the Montreal of the 1930s—the one my grandparents knew,” he explained.

One of Renaud’s partners is Marilou Wolfe, a noted Quebec actress and director who has an incredible 235,000 followers on Instagram.

While I intend to return to Le Roseline for lunch or dinner, on this occasion, my guest and I were there to sample the brunch.

The options on the menu combine skillfully reinvented classics with truly daring creations. For those who love savory dishes, the eye is immediately drawn to the salmon gravlax, delicately flavored with Labrador tea and juniper berries, served on toasted rustic bread. There is comfort food like scrambled eggs served with their homemade “Cheese Whiz” or the decadent grilled cheese with smoked meat and apple cider tomme. That was my choice.

Customers seem to love the fluffy buttermilk pancakes topped with homemade rhubarb compote – my guest’s selection. There is also crunchy granola served with creamy labneh yogurt, figs, and plums and more

Renaud and his manager Loic, served us personally and guided us through the menu,

Here is a more detailed look at the brunch menu:

Watermelon Tzatziki

Watermelon on a bed of creamy tzatziki, red onion with sumac, fragrant za’atar, and crispy Maldon salt.

Golden Halloumi

Golden halloumi, caramelized honey vinaigrette, fresh orange wedges, and roasted grapes.

Labneh Yogurt Granola with Seasonal Fruit

Crunchy granola, Greek yogurt, labneh, seasonal fruit, pistachios, and buckwheat honey.

Spring Beet Hummus

Beet hummus, poached egg, avocado, feta, tahini dressing, pomegranate seeds, dukkah, fragrant za’atar, fresh herbs, served with a green salad and homemade rustic bread.

Salmon Gravlax with Labrador Tea and Juniper Berries

Dill yogurt, sumac-marinated onions, Aleppo oil, with a touch of candied lemon, capers, chili, and orange zest, served with toasted rustic bread or a bagel.

Chakchouka

Two poached eggs on a fricassee of marinated tomatoes and peppers, tzatziki, feta, za’atar, served with toasted rustic bread.

Scrambled Eggs with House-Made Cheese Whiz

Scrambled eggs, salsa verde, roasted almonds, smoked mushrooms, served with toasted rustic bread.

Eggs Benedict, braised bone-in ham

Two poached eggs on brioche, braised bone-in ham, saffron hollandaise sauce, dukkah, and fresh herbs.

English breakfast

Homemade baked beans, pork sausage, smoked country bacon, and hash browns. Blood sausage + 4.

Grilled Cheese (my choice)

Focaccia bread, smoked meat, apple cider tomme, Cantonnier, mozzarella, onion compote, house-made spicy ketchup, green salad.

Buttermilk and Rhubarb Pancakes (my guest’s choice)

Fluffy pancakes (three of them), homemade rhubarb compote, caramelized pecans.

You can also choose from a selection of baked goods, desserts, morning cocktails, and coffee and tea. Bravo to the kitchen headed by Chef Edwal, who hails from Amsterdam,

The restaurant features pianists from 11 am to 1 pm on Saturdays and Sundays, like 21-year-old Benoit Francoeur, who was performing the morning we were there.

Le Roseline is located at 5014, Boul. St-Laurent. It has a seasonal terrace. You can call 514-544-6869 or log on to www.leroseline.com

Trendy Le Roseline is now open for brunch with skillfully reinvented classics

Be First to Comment

Leave a Reply Cancel reply